Discuss Outside tap split - replacement advice in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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I made the error of forgetting to cover and isolate my outside tap and have suffered a burst pipe due to the recent freezing weather conditions.

The vertical part of the white plastic pipe shown below has split.
(tap is now isolated so not leaking)
upload_2018-3-4_11-23-44.png


from the inside the pipe work looks like this....

upload_2018-3-4_11-25-9.png


Is it possible to replace only split bit of pipe work? ( i dont think so as it looks like the elbows are glued/bonded)

shouldn't be a major trouble for me to replace the lot but i wanted to check what you guys would recommend using to replace the pipe work?

plastic or copper?

If i go for plastic, whats the correct adhesive ill need to bond the joints?

I've got a gas torch so i'm happy to have a go at soldering up some copper pipe if you guys reckon that's the better option
 
Replace with copper
As far as i know solvent weld plastic inst commonly used domestically any more
Dont forget a check valve
 
My bedmst advice (assuming you actually know how to solder):
Remove everything back to internal tap. Use copper and a double check valve internally.
The clever bit (IMO): use a 1/2"Female X 15mm connector. Fit the new tap into the 1/2". Solder a length about 750mm to other end. Use a masonry drill bit obout 3/4" to enlarge the hole but only to a depth of approx 5-10mm. Push the pipe into the existing hole in the wall. Use a hammer to tap the tap fully home and wedged. Cut the pipe inside to a correct protrusion length and connect via a DCV to the tap.

In this way, you can isolate the tap and open it, thus draining it and avoiding the freeze.

Technically, I know the pipe should be slightly.

You can buy the pipe and fitting preassembled from, for example, Screwfix.
 
And don't buy a tap with incorporated check valve. Have the double check valve inside the building and a normal outside tap without check valve on the outside.
 
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