Programmer and stat change

[jimmybigguns]

Afternoon all, i've recently bought a Drayton mitime RF T710R to replace my hortsmann C27 and poorly position surface wired room stat! Thought I might be able to take the programmer off and stick the new one straight on the back plate but I should have known better!

this is the current wiring and believe I have the following configuration



The new programmer has the following diagram shown on the reverse!


Am I correct in thinking that the wiring should be as follows and that the old position 4 common for room stat is now redundant as the new programmer has a RF room stat?



I have city and guilds in heating which I got with British gas when I did my apprenticeship but I haven't been in the game for about 12 years now and recently bought a house so i'm a little rusty shall we say!

Any advice would be welcomed

Thanks

 

[Johnmdc]

You need the T720R what you have got is a single channel programmer you want a 2 channel one, that will just slot onto the existing backplate.

 

[TFGplumbing]

yeh needs a HW on & HW off to work with a 'Y plan'

 

[Inverness]

Sorry I don't know how to make a new post.
I have a lifestyle lp722 in a s plan sealed system. I have no room stat. I want to change the programmer to the horstmann c27 as its more user friendly. Can someone assisted me please.

 

[TFGplumbing]

Sorry I don't know how to make a new post.
I have a lifestyle lp722 in a s plan sealed system. I have no room stat. I want to change the programmer to the horstmann c27 as its more user friendly. Can someone assisted me please.

That will need rewiring slightly for the programmer, as the terminals are arranged slightly differently, give you local heating engineer a call

Get a room stat fitted too & save yourself some fuel

 

[Inverness]

It's a big house and the time it would take for the room stat to get room temperature and for the operating stat in the boiler to click off. It wouldn't be saving me money that's why having just trvs on the rads that way I can adjust for every room and when the boiler reaches its highest temperature it will switch off depending if it's on boost or timed. Can some one give me advice on this. Thank you. I'm only in my second year as apprentice plumber.

 

[AlexGas]

...so i'm a little rusty shall we say!

Any advice would be welcomed

Thanks

Why not to get someone in who’s been oiled regularly!?

 

[jimmybigguns]

Thanks guys i've ordered the 720 version now £30 more expensive well £80 if you include the 710 I bought as well lol, just had a look at the wiring diagram and seems to match what I have exactly at present! As this has an RF stat and I want to remove the existing wired state do I leave "4" unwired and the programmer does the calling for heat or do I need to join the old wires from the wired stat together to create.a bypass?

Thanks again

 

[Johnmdc]

Number 4 still needs to be connected. You will need to join the live and switch live at the old room stat and make the neutral safe (if there is one) Or you could disconnect the room stat wire in the joint box where the valve is and connect the white wire from the valve to the red wire from number 4 from the clock.

 

[jimmybigguns]

Thanks mate, all I have on the current stat is maybe 1mm twin and earth as per photo! Maybe I need to try and find the junction box and do the white and red job! The wiring is a right bodge up

 

[jimmybigguns]

Thanks guys finally got around to opening the wiring box and wondering if anyone knows which wire is likely to be the red wire from position 4 on the clock! There are 3 sets of cables 2 x red/yellow/blue and one black/red/earth which look like they come up from the kitchen where clock is positioned! Am I correct in thinking the red and black with earth is likely to be the room stat so that red and black come out and the extra red that is in the block 3rd down on the left with the second red wire at present then needs to connect to the white to valve?

Thanks

 

[ShaunCorbs]

With the power off at the stat connect the wire you want to find and connect it to earth

Now with a multi meter on continuity

One prob on earth

And now start left or right (one side to the other) until you find continuity and that's your wire

 

[Johnmdc]

Looking at your picture of the wiring centre what you suggest should be correct.

 

[jimmybigguns]

Thanks for a prompt reply mate! Sorry but i'm useless with wiring! I'm trying to find where the red wire from the programmer is in the wiring box so I can connect it to the white wire on the valve! Am I right in thinking that the stat controls the valve? So the black that is currently joined to the white should be a call for heat from stat?

Thanks again

 

[ShaunCorbs]