Discuss pumped hot water in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.
yeah i know of the trevi never come across one though.

yeah thats all i was asking charlie, a prv would have to be used, therefore i would personally use a pump on the cwsc for cold and hot cylinder no need for the prv then. But i see what system you would use - charlie im only on my level 3 myself in heat and vent so look for different ways of doing things and all views are welcome - more i know the better.

cheers
Why would you fit a pressure relief valve on the mains water supply
as the mans would have nothing to do with the cylinder.
you would use a PRV on unvented system yes

I would also prefer to use a pump for both feeds but as you go on in later work you will find this is not always possible as some times you might come across scenarios where the CWST may be to small to cope or the flow to the ballvalve is poor
cheers

what ever pump you may choose just be sure the cold water tank feeder is big enough to not get sucked dry by pump, also, use proper flange on top of cylinder to save sucking in air, hope this helps omigo

Spot on m8
 
Last edited by a moderator:
thanks for all the replies. i forgot to mention i wouldn't be doing the unvented hot water cylinder alone if he wanted it done! i was going to do the pump on my own but if he wanted unvneted hot water, i was going to get a guy at my plumbing work to come and help me.
 
unvented systems are pretty straight forward providing you follow the basic layout of valves and expansion vessel location, just follow the diagram you got from school... looks more complicated on paper than it really is.
 
Depends what the mains pressure is
if you are talking about a shower you can use pressure reducing valves.

Or there is a shower on the market that has mains feed and hot feed with no pump trevi boost and a shower is the only place you would want equal pressure?


Why would you fit a pressure relief valve on the mains water supply
as the mans would have nothing to do with the cylinder.
you would use a PRV on unvented system yes

I would also prefer to use a pump for both feeds but as you go on in later work you will find this is not always possible as some times you might come across scenarios where the CWST may be to small to cope or the flow to the ballvalve is poor
cheers



Spot on m8

you mentioned prv matey

i was merely stating that it would have to be used.

theres mains around here that are 7 bar.... so to protect the thermostatic head a prv would haver to be fitted to equal the pressure from the pump 1-2 bar.

doesnt matter anyways, if someone had a small cwsc i would advise to either enlarge to have enough for a power shower or go electric.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
you mentioned prv matey

i was merely stating that it would have to be used.

theres mains around here that are 7 bar.... so to protect the thermostatic head a prv would haver to be fitted to equal the pressure from the pump 1-2 bar.

doesnt matter anyways, if someone had a small cwsc i would advise to either enlarge to have enough for a power shower or go electric.
yeah i did mention the prv you wouldnt need one as the pressure reducing valve would protect the shower
that is high 7 bar i suspect most people have pressure reducing valves
fitted
is there a PRV that can handle 7 bar for domestic use highest ive seen is 6 on commercial mains water unvented systems
 
Hi guys.
New to the forum. - Wondered if I could jump in on this one?
I've been scouring other sites to get a definitive answer for the same questions 'Newbie' was asking.
My system is pretty conventional. - Gravity H/W(vented cylinder), Pumped Heating controlled by 'Y' plan (single Mid-valve)
After just fitting kitchen mixer taps - mistakenly high-pressure units!!!! - thought it may well be a good idea to fit a pump to whole H/W system. (H/W pressure in bathroom is adequate)
Have read endless posts (and arguments!) about associated problems with overflowing vent pipes, fitting check valves, NOT fitting check valves etc. etc......
Just wonderin if it is 'do-able' or best to just forget it all and re-fit some low pressure taps to kitchen? - Only thing swaying me to persevere with it was the fact that I intend to fit a whole house water softener at some future point.

Any help will be most appreciated. Thanx.
 
Hi there, Esssex Flange would work with negative Stuart Turner pump but sounds like a better install would be a nice smallish unvented cylinder with unvented pressure vessel and D1 D2 pipework correctly sized. This will give quieter noise levels when showering as pumps can be noisy and your mate can afford a decent system as you say. Good luck
 
Hi there, Esssex Flange would work with negative Stuart Turner pump but sounds like a better install would be a nice smallish unvented cylinder with unvented pressure vessel and D1 D2 pipework correctly sized. This will give quieter noise levels when showering as pumps can be noisy and your mate can afford a decent system as you say. Good luck

Counting to ten.
 
Upgrade the hot water to unvented for the sake of a mixer tap?! Really?? Change the tap and forget all thoughts of hot water pumps would be my advice.
 
hi jamesboy648
id personaly use an essex flange and drill to the cylinder to fit it (i personaly take the immersion out , feed a wire from the hole cut out of the cylinder thru the hole where the immersion was and slide the flange down, this way your hole you drill in the cylinder can be smaller than the way they tell you to put it in on the instructions ) nd take a feed from this to a booster pump , also take a feed from the header tank to the pump ( this will have to be lower than the feed to the hot water to prevent scalding) then cold feed and hot will be of same pressure! hope this is of help!
 
hi jamesboy648
id personaly use an essex flange and drill to the cylinder to fit it (i personaly take the immersion out , feed a wire from the hole cut out of the cylinder thru the hole where the immersion was and slide the flange down, this way your hole you drill in the cylinder can be smaller than the way they tell you to put it in on the instructions ) nd take a feed from this to a booster pump , also take a feed from the header tank to the pump ( this will have to be lower than the feed to the hot water to prevent scalding) then cold feed and hot will be of same pressure! hope this is of help!

For the sake of a set of taps?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to pumped hot water in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Newest Plumbing Threads

Back
Top