Pushfit heating pipes

[Aire]

Try this

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/tesla...MI5JPajuHt4gIVT7vtCh3LrAv0EAQYASABEgIxbvD_BwE

I prefer the rigid ones

 

[Marc Bowers]

You could just isolate the radiator by shutting down both radiator valves (just remember how many turns you close the lockshield valve (the one with the loosely spinning head) down by so you don’t mess up the system balance when you refill the rad later). With both valves isolated you should be able to refill the system and restore heating and hot water to the rest of the property. It would be prudent to have a couple of caps to cap the radiator valves off with if they let by a little. (The one in the picture needs a 1/2” cap, couldn’t tell you if the other side is the same). That way you can ran as normal, replace the drain off cock when it comes in and just refill that one radiator afterwards.

 

[jrtrrror]

Hi Mark bowers. Thanks. Sorry what do you mean by Caps. Would you be kind enough to drop me a link for the item? SF is open now. Haha

To other guys with there suggestions, I have just watched a very useful video is a telescopic tail being installed. With a link to the item.
https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/x-15mm-rigid-trv-extension-piece-0-65mm-2-pack/10954

Three questions.
1.Would your Tesla version be better?
2. Are these telescopic ones reliable? I guess the tube slides within a o ring.
3. Is there enough room within the rad inlet hope for the full length of the extending tube. Or would it require cutting.
I must admit, they look really good.

This is the video

Should the guy really have wrapped the olive and compression fitting with PTFE tape. I thought you shouldn't with compression. He also wrapped the tail that goes into the rad, even the it had its own seal.

Thanks again everyone. I will keep saying it... your help is much appreciated

 

[Aire]

Hi Mark bowers. Thanks. Sorry what do you mean by Caps. Would you be kind enough to drop me a link for the item? SF is open now. Haha

To other guys with there suggestions, I have just watched a very useful video is a telescopic tail being installed. With a link to the item.
https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/x-15mm-rigid-trv-extension-piece-0-65mm-2-pack/10954

Three questions.
1.Would your Tesla version be better?
2. Are these telescopic ones reliable? I guess the tube slides within a o ring.
3. Is there enough room within the rad inlet hope for the full length of the extending tube. Or would it require cutting.
I must admit, they look really good.

This is the video

Should the guy really have wrapped the olive and compression fitting with PTFE tape. I thought you shouldn't with compression. He also wrapped the tail that goes into the rad, even the it had its own seal.

Thanks again everyone. I will keep saying it... your help is much appreciated

I don't like the telescopic ones, I've had them leak in the past. The rigid tesla ones work much better in my opinion, if they're too long you can just cut them down. Ptfe round the threads into the radiator and nothing wrong with a little ptfe round the olive, just not round the valve threads, it's pointless.

As Marc says though, you can just turn the valves off, so you can refil your system and just leave that rad empty. and the caps he means are these
https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/blank...P8qKShv3lnK89i2J0Cb1rcBj6qGt1J6BoCDc0QAvD_BwE
If you have a trv then definitely recommend to use one.

 

[jrtrrror]

Hi. Yes, I did think about turning off the valves and refilling. But, everything in this house seems to leak after isolating. Even rad valves. So, thought I'd just leave them as they are. Incidentally, how would I cut the rigid extension tails to the correct size. I have a grinder.

Thanks again

 

[Ben-gee]

Hacksaw then file.

 

[jrtrrror]

So. This is where I'm at. New Drayton drain valves installed. One was very difficult to get to. Is it imperative that you screw the tail all the way in to the end of the thread?
It got very tight to turn but the drain outlet was not yet vertical. I counted how many turns to remove it. I then removed the PTFE and replaced, counting revolutions. But it weeps. Only slightly,

I've left it for now since it's not bad.
I've filled the system. Bled all the rads.
I then pressurised the system to around ¾ bar, below the pressure at which the boiler usually switches it self back on after a low pressure fault code E119, which is around 1¼ bar. (You will see a little black dot on the photo of the dial.) It's a Baxi Duo Tec Combi 33HE is
However, on this occasion the boiler didn't switch on until 1½ bar.
Should I run it at this. Or should I drain some water, to lower the pressure.

Thanks again.

 

[jrtrrror]

Oh wow. I've not ran the central heating yet. But tried a hot water tap. The temperature rose very quickly, up to 94c. I switched of the tap. I opened up the heat exchanger automatic air vent. Which released some air then water, but only a little water. I can open the pump automatic air vent. I could try some grips on it. But I did open the screw on the front of the pump and released air and a teeny bit of water.
What do I need to do.
Surely this ain't right
Thanks

 

[Harvest Fields]

Heat exchanger air vent? Which one is this?

 

[jrtrrror]

Hi. On top of the boiler.
After venting, It settled down a bit.
I'm just slowly raising the hot water temp and venting after a few minutes.
Hopefully I'm going the right thing
I'm not going to put the central heating on until tomorrow.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

turn the heating on with the heating temp dia down pump should run for a bit

 

[Harvest Fields]

As above you need the boiler to be running on the heating cycle.

 

[jrtrrror]

Ok. Oops. Ive been periodically turning the hot tap on and venting. Only venting after the pump has stopped running though.

I'll the run heating turned down tomorrow. I didn't want to run the heating at this hour on a Sunday night in case all the repairs I've made leaked when running. Haha.
All but one are ok at the moment, (the rad tail I mentioned earlier) whilst the system is filled, but not running hot.

Will I have done something detrimental by running hot water?
I've only run it around three times, probably less than a minute on each occasion. The digital temperature gauge did read around 10c - 15C higher what the dial is set at. But at least it's not jumping up to 90C+ now.
Thanks again everyone

 

[jrtrrror]

Good Morning.
Are you all fed up with me yet?

Update. As you know, last night I fired up the boiler after re-filling the system following some repairs I had made...
Actually I spare you all the details, I perhaps give to much

Long story short. I've got the central heating system running low temp. I've set the dial at 40C and that is round about where the boiler is keeping the temperature. As indicated by the digital display.
However, the hot water has been used, (not whilst the central heating was running though) and the temperature on the digital display showed a rise up to 60C, but importantly the dial was only set at 42C.
Should I be worried about this?
I don't remember it doing this before the system was emptied. All though I can't be certain.
I have vented the pump and heat exchanger automatic air vent on top of the boiler. And vented all the rads a third time.

Thanks again everyone.