Discuss Rayburn and water heating. in the DIY Plumbing Forum area at PlumbersForums.net

First I would strongly recommend a twin coil cylinder with both coils indirect, correct way to do it .
Easy enough to have a bespoke cylinder made .
I use Newark cylinders for special cylinders mostly because I can collect from them rather than pay carriage. They will make a cylinder in any configuration you like choice of copper or stainless.
 
First I would strongly recommend a twin coil cylinder with both coils indirect, correct way to do it .
Easy enough to have a bespoke cylinder made .
I use Newark cylinders for special cylinders mostly because I can collect from them rather than pay carriage. They will make a cylinder in any configuration you like choice of copper or stainless.
Thank you for the advice and I would agree with what you say about the the secondary indirect coil. The thing is that this is a listed stone building and getting permissions, running new pipework and finding spaces for header tanks etc is nigh on Impossible. The Newark Cylinders tip is very useful thank you and I have mailed them for some costs. Thanks again.
 
Why not take the Rayburn out and take the opportunity to install a new cylinder with electric immersion and coil from gas boiler?
Unfortunately for me this is a listed building and the Rayburn is a feature of the kitchen. The existing cylinder is already coiled up to a gas boiler and it has an immersion heater, so there is no problem with hot water (apart from the leaking Essex flanges, of course). My only goal here is to get the minimum amount plumbed in to a replacement cylinder in order to be able to turn the Rayburn on, so that it can work as both a cooker and a heat source for the kitchen.

This is all based on my understanding that it is not possible to run a Rayburn without its boiler being plumbed in and filled. If it is possible to have the boiler section removed or modified in some way as to not being required at all I would be happy with that as a solution also?
 

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