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Stew

Current set up:
One hole monoblock mixer kitchen tap is old and broken, leaking from the base, needs to be replaced.
Connected to the hot and cold pipes by straight copper 15mm to 10mm pipes, soldered at both ends.

What I am proposing and would appreciate it if anyone could identify any potential problems:
Turn off the mains cold and the hot water supply leaving the hot water tank (there are no separate isolation valves I can find for this tap) run the taps to empty much of the remaining water from the pipes.
Put down some rag and still expect some excess water.

Cut the 15mm to 10mm converting pipes with a hacksaw as there is not room to get a pipe cutter in.
Unscrew the thread holding the tap in place with a box spanner, remove the old tap.

Cut the 15mm hot and cold pipes down to below the soldered elbow joint.
Install a new monoblock mixer one hole kitchen tap using flexi pipe with a tap to 15mm and compression fittings

My concerns are is flexipipe suitable for taking the 15mm hot supply and cold supplies straight to the tap, from the horizontal position they are currently running in? If so, why was this not done in the first place?
Also wondering if it would be worth fitting isolation valves while I am at it?

Thanks.
 
Yes the flexi's are fine, not the best way but not the worst, deff cut some isolation valves in as changing the tap at a later date will be a whole lot easier.
 
Should be fine. as ch4 said stick some isolating valves on.. You can get flexis with a bigger internal bore but there not as bendy,.
 
also instead of forcing the flexis onto the pipe at a right angle, use right angle iso valves like this
82153.jpg
 
Excellent, thanks for your help and right angle iso valves seems like a good idea.
Will let you know how I get on.
 
Good stuff, a picture of the finished result would be nice to see if you could manage one.
 
may have been that the old tap was supplied with the copper tails only so the plumber fitted them with that.

Yes yes to isolation valves as it will help if anything goes wrong in the future and for the cost you wont regret, the angled ones seem to suit your set up perfectly
 
Copper tails are the best job tbh. However, a lot of taps now come with flexies.
If the flexies only have a nut on end with a rubber washer seal inside, then used 1/2" x15mm male fittings to connect to pipes even if you fit isolating valves lower. (Isolating valves or compression connectors are for olives only & have a sharp edge unsuitable really for the flexi rubber seal).
If the pipes are quite a bit to one side, consider using 1/2" x 15mm male BENDS, instead of male straights.
 
Copper tails are the best job tbh. However, a lot of taps now come with flexies.
If the flexies only have a nut on end with a rubber washer seal inside, then used 1/2" x15mm male fittings to connect to pipes even if you fit isolating valves lower. (Isolating valves or compression connectors are for olives only & have a sharp edge unsuitable really for the flexi rubber seal).
If the pipes are quite a bit to one side, consider using 1/2" x 15mm male BENDS, instead of male straights.

unless you replace rubber washers for fibre washers-not the ones used on swivels but the chunkier ones these are great for flexis to isovalves/ballofix
 
Tip - Keep spare 15mm male x 1/2" male radiator tails and fit one into the isovalve 15mm end and you are left with a nice 1/2" connection with flat edge to screw your flexi tail onto.
 
Our plumbers merchant sells a monobloc tap box spanner set and monobloc taps. I pointed out to them that the set they sell does not contain a 10mm box spanner yet their taps all fasten with a 10mm nut!

If you're getting a box spanner set, make sure it has a 10mm box spanner as this is increasingly common on continental and metric sized monobloc fittings.
 
Monument monoblock spanner set has 3 spanners and tommy bar with total of 6 sizes (1 each end). They have not let me down yet always a size to fit. Even the 10mm. Rottenburger set only has 2 spaners / 4 sizes
 
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