So .. I bought this new kitchen sink mixer tap..

[chucka]

Don't laugh... (too much)

We have a white mixer tap (20yrs old now) it needs replacing and I bought a very similar one yesterday.. it came with the flexible hoses as you'd expect but most don't seem to like.. anyway looking at it I couldn't see how it was piped in the first place. .all soldered up but 'in place' and screwed in and tightened up.

the two copper pipes on left go right up to the threaded monobloc

I could not see how to detach this as even cutting the pipes, you would have a job unscrewing the pipes out of the tap block underneath!!!! Then I also thought I can't even fit compression joints (my preference) as the pipes are too close together anyway.... Hence I thought of coming here and asking how the magician did it. (these are the problems newbies face.. no experience)
Anyway.. laying awake most of the night thinking about this.. Am I right in thinking that it was measured up, then the pipes fitted into the monobloc unit then put through the sink top and slid into the two soldered joints (halfway up the photo) in the first photo and then the retaining bolt fitted and then soldered up?

Same way to get it out? undo the bolt and heat the joints and pull it up?

I do have a gas torch/flux/solder but nothing to stop me burning the kitchen cupboard down

Those pipes almost touch that 'thin' white backboard!

The other question.. bear with me please.. is the new fitting. If I fit it the same way with the bolt away from the wall I am actually using it backwards with the screw and label showing..

I can change the tap tops around so the hot and cold colours correct. What do you think.. if I put it the other way with the bolt at the back wall I'm guessing the pipes are going to be 5-7 mm off centre from where they fall right now (bolt currently at the front).. is there enough tolerance/movement over the pipe length to force it slightly forward.. or a bad idea?

any tips or observations are greatly appreciated.. it was going to be soooo easy...

Perhaps i could be a traffic warden and have less trouble.. Err.. No.

 

[Harvest Fields]

Pipe cutter to cut the pipes.

 

[oz-plumber]

Looking at those pics.
Plumbing has become easier.
I can remember when mixer taps first come out and they were all like this - although we had unions supplied to go from 10mm to 1/2'' copper.
And heaps of the taps were white!!!

 

[Harvest Fields]

Looking at those pics.
Plumbing has become easier.
I can remember when mixer taps first come out and they were all like this - although we had unions supplied to go from 10mm to 1/2'' copper.
And heaps of the taps were white!!!

Or they were also beige

 

[townfanjon]

With the greatest respect , that is not a job I would encourage a diyer to do , call a plumber it will be cheaper in the long run .

 

[chucka]

Pipe cutter to cut the pipes.

And joint them again?

In your opinion, wouldn't the existing joints release with some heat/protecting the back board?

 

[centralheatking]

With the greatest respect , that is not a job I would encourage a diyer to do , call a plumber it will be cheaper in the long run .

I agree get a plumber in, you might well need some special tools
the cost of which will be more than a jobbing plumber from
your local area and he might even do it properly. You will need another pair of hands to make sure tap stays fixed in place as well
centralheatking

 

[Harvest Fields]

And joint them again?

In your opinion, wouldn't the existing joints release with some heat/protecting the back board?

Can you post a pic of the flexi’s? Before I answer.

 

[Best]

Cut pipe tails with junior hacksaw or whatever and remove mixer by first taking small nut off bolt underneath tap.
You might find the pipes have some movement to enable you to use pipe slice now.
Then cut the pipes below the soldered connectors, leaving the left hand one approx 50mm longer. You can then use a brass connector on left pipe and a brass compression elbow on right hand pipe to work from. (You can then fit pipe using a soldered elbow to put pipe vertical again up to new mixer flexi)
Easy enough.
Whoever fitted that old tap was really not thinking of the poor bloke who has to replace it later

 

[Harvest Fields]

Cut pipe tails with junior hacksaw or whatever and remove mixer by first taking small nut off bolt underneath tap.
You might find the pipes have some movement to enable you to use pipe slice now.
Then cut the pipes below the soldered connectors, leaving the left hand one approx 50mm longer. You can then use a brass connector on left pipe and a brass compression elbow on right hand pipe to work from. (You can then fit pipe using a soldered elbow to put pipe vertical again up to new mixer flexi)
Easy enough.
Whoever fitted that old tap was really not thinking of the poor bloke who has to replace it later

Was trying to see if he needs any extra fittings before he cuts the pipes mate.

 

[Best]

Also I notice if you wished to have the original pipes a little further apart, as they really should have been installed, you could move the cold pipework to the right by say, 25mm or more by cutting the horizontal pipe where the earth clip roughly is and shortening it and also shorten the horizontal pipe where the iso valve is by same amount

Was trying to see if he needs any extra fittings before he cuts the pipes mate.

I was just leaving that problem to the OP.
He might need Male straights or adapters, plus the compression connectors and elbows I suggested.
That is the sort of job customers wonder why it takes me 2 hours to replace their tap.

 

[rpm]

First thing I would fit would be isolating valves if they aren't already fitted. Saves the missus whining the waters off.

 

[centralheatking]

First thing I would fit would be isolating valves if they aren't already fitted. Saves the missus whining the waters off.

He might use push fit connectors but on copper pipe its a good way out avoids hot works. centralheatking

 

[chucka]

First thing I would fit would be isolating valves if they aren't already fitted. Saves the missus whining the waters off.

Great idea..

Thanks for the reminder

 

[rpm]

He might use push fit connectors but on copper pipe its a good way out avoids hot works. centralheatking

He can use whatever he likes as far as I'm concerned but would still fit isolating valves.