Discuss Toilet ball valve wont fully shut off..... in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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jerry20

I have recently changed a old toilet ball valve(bottom entry) for a new bottom entry ball valve, the old ball valve was filling near the correct water level then slowing down and then trickling for about 10mins before shutting off. The costumer was having to remove the cistern lid and raise the arm on the ball valve manually everytime the toilet was used. I changed the old valve for a new one, virtually the same, hoping this would solve the problem but no, it still does exactly the same thing. Ive tried adjusting the flow restictors, tried different ball floats, adjusted the mains pressure and still the same thing is happening! I am at a loose end i dont know what else to try! surly a brand new ball valve shouldnt be doing this. Iv actually tried two of the same bottom entry valves thinking the first one was faulty....... HELP!!!!
 
would I need to change the syphon or would it just be a straight swap? ball valve for fluid master?
 
Sounds like the ball valve is catching on something. Does it rub the syphon or cistern at all?
 
no, it moves freely, when its about to reach the correct water level the flow of water slows down gradually but instead of shutting off it just trickles and passes for about 10mins or so.
 
Hello,
no, it moves freely, when its about to reach the correct water level the flow of water slows down gradually but instead of shutting off it just trickles and passes for about 10mins or so.
This is normal for cistern ballvalves.
Best Wishes
Andy
 
Hi. I'm new here as I have the same problem - please do tell me nicely if I have to create my own post.

I have just replaced the valve system in the cistern and have a brand new bullcock but the water still raises too high and overflows. I think the ball is getting stuck on a bit of plastic that sticks out which the logo on the front fits into. Even if I move the ball, it stops just short of shutting the valve. The funny thing with the system I brought is the ball is on a flexible moving bit rather than solid. The ball moves towards the front of the cistern as it goes up - this happens if the arm is free or is stopped from floating to the bottom by pushing the arm against the syphon. There is a moving screw that I can move to adjust the flow but it doesn't seem to make any difference where ever it is. The valve will shut if I manually move it up a tiny bit but that's still an inch or so above the water line and just in line with the overflow.

I also wonder if replacing the syphon is worth doing as it is easily over 20years old?

I get what every one is saying about the fluidmaster but I just paid £17 for this today and am keen not to just bin it without trying to get it right!

Any ideas to try would be very much appreciated.

DM7 - first time toilet valve replacer

NB the kit I brought is here if of any use to anyone: [DLMURL]https://www.homebase.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=110&storeId=10151&partNumber=379509[/DLMURL]
 
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Hi. I posted that I had the same problem last Friday, but it still hasn't been authorised by a mod :(

If this one does go up, please could someone proffer a solution as I just forked out £17 for my valve set so don't want to have to pay out again if a solution can be found.

Many thanks

DM
 
Hello,
Little bit off thread, I have always found Torbeck valves to be hit and miss, some good and some bad. I also agree with previous poster Dudley valves are really good, but they are angle cranked to fit 1960's cisterns that are huge and flush 2 gallons. If they made them straight stemmed they would be a real option.
Best Wishes
Andy
 
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