Trianco Oil Boiler start-up

[JeremyB]

I have an old but good Trianco EuroStar 50-60 (S) oil fired boiler with a Riello RBL G5 BF burner which has been well maintained and regularly serviced by me. I am not a professional but have a reasonably good working knowledge of the boiler and acces to a Brigon test kit.

I am recently finding that when it's cold the burner is taking quite a long time to establish a flame. It will ignite for maybe 10 seconds, stop, re-ignite and so on for a period of several minutes and multiple re-ignitions before the flame is permanently established. It does not lock out. Once everything is warmed up it will establish a flame immediately.

I fitted a new Danfoss nozzle last July during the annual service. The oil pump is a little noisy but the pressure is running at the specified 70 psi. The two oil filters are clean. No water in oil tank (tested with water finding paste). I haven't used a combustion analyser or smoke pump for some time but the flame looks about right.

Before I take a closer look I will appreciate comments on possible causes of the problem. I'm considering the photoelectric cell, the oil pump solenoid coil or possibly the control box.

Any comments much appreciated. J.

 

[SimonG]

It's none of the things you are looking at, what's the co2, co and excess air?

 

[JeremyB]

Thanks Simon. I'll check co2. Not sure what 'excess air' is? Start-up has been OK until a few weeks ago. There have been no adjustments to the air/fuel mixture. J.

 

[SimonG]

Is the Brigon the wet kit? Not allowed to use that.

Also where did you get 70 psi from?

 

[John.g]

I have an old but good Trianco EuroStar 50-60 (S) oil fired boiler with a Riello RBL G5 BF burner which has been well maintained and regularly serviced by me. I am not a professional but have a reasonably good working knowledge of the boiler and acces to a Brigon test kit.

I am recently finding that when it's cold the burner is taking quite a long time to establish a flame. It will ignite for maybe 10 seconds, stop, re-ignite and so on for a period of several minutes and multiple re-ignitions before the flame is permanently established. It does not lock out. Once everything is warmed up it will establish a flame immediately.

I fitted a new Danfoss nozzle last July during the annual service. The oil pump is a little noisy but the pressure is running at the specified 70 psi. The two oil filters are clean. No water in oil tank (tested with water finding paste). I haven't used a combustion analyser or smoke pump for some time but the flame looks about right.

Before I take a closer look I will appreciate comments on possible causes of the problem. I'm considering the photoelectric cell, the oil pump solenoid coil or possibly the control box.

Any comments much appreciated. J.

I would suggest checking your manual re oil pressure, I would have thought that it should be in the region of 7.5 bar to 10 bar, 110 psi to 145 psi.

 

[SimonG]

Under oiled, over aired.

 

[JeremyB]

Thanks for your suggestions. Yes, the pump pressure should be 110psi. The 70psi I quoted was down to my faulty memory. It IS set at 110psi. The Brigon rest kit is old and wet. For both those reasons I won't use it to check co2. If necessary I shall have to get someone in to do that. I've just checked the photoelectric cell, the electrode settings, and fitted a new nozzle, just in case. To early to tell if there has been any improvement . J.

 

[SJB060685]

70psi is not enough to properly atomize the fuel for reliable ignition, mix that with the colder temperatures we've been seeing and thicker fuel as a result and that could be the cause.

Edit. Do you have a tigerloop by any chance?
[automerge]1579102692[/automerge]

Thanks for your suggestions. Yes, the pump pressure should be 110psi. The 70psi I quoted was down to my faulty memory. It IS set at 110psi. The Brigon rest kit is old and wet. For both those reasons I won't use it to check co2. If necessary I shall have to get someone in to do that. I've just checked the photoelectric cell, the electrode settings, and fitted a new nozzle, just in case. To early to tell if there has been any improvement . J.

For some reason it doesn't update me on all notifications.
I must add everytime the oil pressure and/or air damper are adjusted then you need to do a smoke test and FGA reading, this is to set up correctly, efficiently and most importantly safely, if you don't have access to them then don't fiddle and get someone out who does and knows what they're doing please.
You say it ignites then shuts down, short cycling if you will but without going to lockout. This could of been fuel but I've seen your recent posts and all sounds ok, however what is oil pressure doing at point of loss of flame? You could have a dodgy drive key on pump or a slipping pump coupling.
The symptoms you suggest could also be caused by a weak secondary coil, weak holding voltage for said coil from control box, the control box again, too much or too little air or the balanced flue circulating flue gases. However if the flame stabilizes after some time you could potentially rule out some of them. The photocell could well be weak as well.