What sort of pressure does a Powerflush create?

[Jaymc]

Hello everyone,

Had a plumber bail out on me today, after a really good quote on Monday.
Text me today to say he'd contacted his insurer, and because I have 10mm without barrier, and pressures of above 3 bar being put on it, it would likely "leak like a seive" and will "have to pass on it"
I thought plastic was tested to approx 10-12 bar?

Now I'm sure you don't want to speak ill off a fellow "Plumb" I'm just trying to establish if it's a reasonable excuse?
I'm really disappointed, he had lots of experience, answered everything, offered loads of options, and now I'm just massively deflated! :angel_smile:

Look forward to your opinions

Jay.

 

[newcastle phill]

If working correctly and a bona-fide powerflush machine is used then it will be about 2 bar.

They cannot go higher as they will activate a modern boilers PRV safety valve and cause issues....so by design - high flow / low pressure

Naturally a concern on any operatives mind is not causing damage to a customers property so perhaps his overall risk assessment of your installation was in the red zone.

The last thing anyone needs is a claim if a risk is likely to occur.

Best thing you can do is speak to more local business and get other advice

 

[Atouchofgas]

I don't think it's anything to do with the power flush as to why he's declined the job

 

[Chalked]

I think he is looking for an excuse to get out of doing your job. One of two reasons.
1 he is too busy and needs to turn some work away.
2. He knows power flushing 10mm non barrier pipe on heating very rarely works, as it will be blocked solid if it's piped up with drops.

Either way, he is not interested. So best to find do one else.

 

[wattsie1987]

The machine I use is 1.8 bar. A disclaimer is the only way I could see around this to avoid implications on the engineer arising from matters out of his control.

 

[REDSAW]

internall bore is only 5mm powerflush is debatable to work anyhow!

 

[AWheating]

probably best to chem flush with alot of chems, drain and flush rads outisde and then refill with loads of inhibitor. The repeat every year or two as required.

 

[Jaymc]

probably best to chem flush with alot of chems, drain and flush rads outisde and then refill with loads of inhibitor. The repeat every year or two as required.

From what I'm reading, that seems to be the way ahead, I'll be asking about any good flushing techniques later, and suggestions for chems etc. It doesn't look like I'll be getting this job done before Xmas, and I'm convinced from what I've found in my system, that my previous plumber, "Never" used any inhibitor :32:
Do you think I can get a satisfactory clean doing it this way on 10mm?

Jay

 

[hammers4spanner]

Try an initial magna cleanse if its real bad then lift the worst of the rads out blast through with a hosepipe.

 

[Jaymc]

I'm considering a Magnacleanse then.
A few questions if I may,

Q.1 Are their any differences in cleaning 10mm over 15/22 etc?

Q.2 I have a Mainsflow Thermal Store, does that cause any problems?

Q.3 I'm considering changing all the rads, should I get the system cleaned first before fitting, or would I be saving a lot of cleaning by removing the old ones first, therefore removing the bulk of the sludge (but then introducing what's left into my new rads)

Q.4 I've seen lots of posts with "add loads of inhibitor" how much is safe?

Any other suggestions?

Cheers

Jay