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Have a large drink and sit in a darkened room. It could've been worse. Could've been a leak upstairs and the ceiling could've been down. Every cloud.....
 
lol couple of hundreded for an old boiler??your havin a laugh arent you ?

8 years old ? what make and model?

The 8 years was a guess by one plumber, and now I can't remember if that was the age or how many years it potentially had left. Can't remember the make either but probably still have the instruction leaflet knocking around. Considering how much brand new boilers cost and knowing the condition of the boiler myself I'd be prepared to pay a couple hundred for it, especially if I had a cylinder of a similar age. I don't know! Please enlighten me.
 
Agreed, I always state the the old copper etc will be removed from site in my quotes. If they want to keep it then the price will go up.
 
Have a large drink and sit in a darkened room. It could've been worse. Could've been a leak upstairs and the ceiling could've been down. Every cloud.....

Ha! I don't need an excuse to have a large drink, but on your professional recommendation I shall. And it will probably be in bed, until our heating is back on. :bucktooth:
 
the last customer that wanted to keep the scrap got to keep the radiators, i was up in the loft cutting out the old primatic cylinder and he's like "don't worry I'll get that" always hovering around like a vulture

explained to him that its part of the job but i was happy for him to keep the rads😛
 
What flooring was down again? Laminate?

Yep. Laminate in the main building. Our kitchen is on an extension which is around 200mm lower, then we have an extension on the extension which houses the bathroom, and the floor in there is concrete.
 
It's one of them discussions where you only get to hear one side of the argument. In my opinion its unreasonable to expect original plumber to repair at own cost or for a reduced price. Yes he should have mentioned potential problems in swapping from vented to sealed system. But at the end of the day he has done his job as per estimate, and is the reason why I have a line on my estimates which states I do not gaurantee watertightness of any existing pipework and fittings. Prevents a lot of unpleasantness.

Hopefully you will get sorted without too much mess and disruption.
 
Its hard to picture your house or how much depth is under the floor, but I would first definatly prove the leak is in the downstairs pipes by getting him back to lock off the boiler and upstairs, if the pressure still drops then its definatly there.

I would pick an area like under a sofa or dining room tabe and make an access hatch to allow someone to get under the floor with a torch.

If you're unlucky then the depth will be too shallow to even get under, if you're very lucky then you could crawl under the whole ground floor.
 
As soon as the plumber walked through the door and saw the dreaded laminate, any sane person would have mentioned the risk straight away.

These guys get all they deserve, what would he have done if the domestic hot water pipe burst 'somewhere' under the downstairs floor?
 
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My worry is the leak is under that concrete screed floor in the bathroom, probably tiled over aswell with pipes not protected against the corrosive cement.

Or there's a nail or screw through a pipe with a constant drip.
 
My worry is the leak is under that concrete screed floor in the bathroom, probably tiled over aswell with pipes not protected against the corrosive cement.

Or there's a nail or screw through a pipe with a constant drip.

Is there a way of temporarily taking the bathroom system out of the equation and seeing if the pressure loss still occurs? The boiler is located right next to the bathroom. For me, if the leak was happening there this would be a best-case scenario as a new pipe could just be run through the wall rather than having our flooring pulled up.
 

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