That’s why you over-pressurise it slightly eg 1.3 bar ends up being around 1.1-1.2 bar when you remove it
Also did you drain the boiler and leave an open end while re pressurising the expansion vessel
Also you should be gas safe...
It’s not just a pump you will require a cold water tank as well eg all in one unit dab Easy sys eg
https://www.anglianpumping.com/product/water-boosting-pumps/dab-e-sybox-with-e-sytank/
The bayonet acts like the sv
As for reusing old ones aslong as he tested it it’s one of them is it needed providing it’s not leaking no is it good practice yes
Never heard of them
As for the bar mixer looks like a stnd cheap bar mixer that’s around £200
Bristan zing £80 lol
Best thing I could advise is there a local city plumbing showroom there iflo brand is pretty good for the cost stick...
Easy thing to test
Run the shower then run the kitchen sink fault should happen if yes your on a shared main
Two options live with it or get your own water supply installed eg from the water suppliers main underground to your house etc
You don’t have enough water flow and pressure to have both / two on at the same time let’s say each body jet takes 5lpm you want 6 min that’s 30lpm you have half that
Also a system that you want won’t be cheap best part of 1k just for...
Sounds normal
Boiler has to go through it’s sequence of opteration normally around 15-20 seconds then has to heat itself up as it’s cold
Hence the quicker operation when heating as everything is warm / hot
They know about it
Triton years ago had a defective batch of balls (slightly too small and would go if the handheld was too high and with the hose being on the short side would cause a high restriction) rather than address the issue...
A little update. I went with the Ridgid. I've tried a few practice bends today before I tackle the real thing on site. I was impressed by the ease of the bend and also by the quality of the Ridgid.
Thanks Shaun for your reply, I will cut some xps foam as an infill each side and put some waterproof medium between that and the first section of tile backer board.
Can’t see why providing you use it on and off as you currently do
I can see there logic behind not running it as if on constant it would drop the store temp / waste heat through natural Heatloss of the pipework
But In short
Turn water mains off
Hose pipe on drain off
Open drain wait 2-5 mins then vent the upstairs rads and leave open
The downstairs rads will have to be individually drained either via drain offs like picture or via tubs...