Leaking copper pipe

Might be easier to remove a bit of the ceiling to gain access to replace the damaged pipe

But realistically it’s 1/2 to 3/4 of a day of work

ShaunCorbs said:

Might be easier to remove a bit of the ceiling to gain access to replace the damaged pipe

But realistically it’s 1/2 to 3/4 of a day of work

Click to expand...

Hi - Thank you for your reply. Would that be go up to the ceiling from downstairs or do it from bedroom above (it has laminate flooring) and 2 - 4 hours work? - I've been quoted 600 - 700 to do that option which seems high. I don't know the pricing on these jobs, I recently had a radiator removed non-emergency and the guy wanted £410 plus VAT. He did not take the radiator away and has not left end caps on the valves to stop any water escaping - he used no materials and was gone within the hour. I live on my own and whilst I'm confident in most jobs this one is not for me - the advice from local plumbers has varied and I wanted to ask here as I'm not entirely confident with the jobs that have been done by others - it's quite a list.

Is this the only viable option and does the price seem high.

I've been advised that the materials on this would cost £40 and might only take two hours but the charge will remain the same - I understand that no-one can give a definite time frame on this but I am shocked with the cost.

Any opinions or advice on this would be appreciated.

Thanks Connie

Downstairs would recommend as plaster is easier to patch than laminate/ different flooring

Depends are you 100% sure it’s not leaking from above and running down

As for cost 2 hours seem optimistic especially draining down and refilling could take that etc

ShaunCorbs said:

Downstairs would recommend as plaster is easier to patch than laminate/ different flooring

Depends are you 100% sure it’s not leaking from above and running down

As for cost 2 hours seem optimistic especially draining down and refilling could take that etc

Click to expand...

Hi - It's definitely leaking from that hole - I put tissue above the hole to check and it's dry. Tissue below gets slowly damp - annoying because it's the tiniest bit of water that escapes Thanks for the advice I would prefer they go up so reassuring that could be an option.

Can you tell me what "draining down" involves - only one plumber mentioned it - I understand that the pipe needs to be drained but how is this done?

One more question please - if it takes four hours is £600-700 reasonable?

Many thanks Connie

Personally I would cut the pipe through the centre of the hole using a multi-tool with a metal blade, remove the clip, smooth off the pipe ends, clean and flux, put on a 10mm slip coupling, solder it up (or use a brass one). Job done, about half an hour and if you’d made me a cuppa I’d charge you £100.

Where are you Connie?

Hi - I'm in Manchester, not far from Manchester United. Thanks

Rtplumb said:

Personally I would cut the pipe through the centre of the hole using a multi-tool with a metal blade, remove the clip, smooth off the pipe ends, clean and flux, put on a 10mm slip coupling, solder it up (or use a brass one). Job done, about half an hour and if you’d made me a cuppa I’d charge you £100.

Click to expand...

Hi - that was my initial thought but then three plumbers came and blew my mind - I would throw in a cake to go with the cuppa if anyone in the area could do it as you explained. It took three weeks to get the three guys in - they kept cancelling due to traffic, broken vans and other issues and another just did not turn up after cancelling once he arranged another visit which was a no show. Thank you for taking time to advise its really appreciated. Thanks Connie

Connie194 said:

Hi - that was my initial thought but then three plumbers came and blew my mind - I would throw in a cake to go with the cuppa if anyone in the area could do it as you explained. It took three weeks to get the three guys in - they kept cancelling due to traffic, broken vans and other issues and another just did not turn up after cancelling once he arranged another visit which was a no show. Thank you for taking time to advise its really appreciated. Thanks Connie

Click to expand...

Hi - just wanted to follow up on this post and thank everyone for their thoughts and assistance. I have some follow up questions and wanted more advice.

The copper pipe leak has been fixed today with a compression fitting - as yet I can see no leak, however, when I turned the heating on to test the pipe when hot (I believe they expand) my boiler keeps tripping out. This happened about 13 days ago when I had a leaking radiator removed but after a couple of resets on the boiler everything went back to normal - I also adjusted some of the lock shield valves to balance the system - this improved the radiators massively as some were not getting hot and some were just too hot but after running around the house I think I figured the sequence they start in and made the changes - I was happy as all seemed well - better in fact.

The plumber today used the valve where this radiator was (now empty spot) to drain the system before he fixed the pipe.

I have this evening tried to reset the boiler a few times but it's still not firing up properly - it starts OK but then the pilot goes off and it shuts down - with a “c” in front of the temp it managed to get to.

The hot water is heating up until the boiler shuts down.

It's a Ariston CLAS HER boiler with a a Wilo Yonos Pico 25/1-5-130 pump.

The radiators could not be bled today as they are covered in paint (previous owners) and some bleed valves appear to have been rounded off - when the radiator was removed 13 days ago they were not bled then but the boiler fired up & all seemed good after the resets.

Will not bleeding the radiators likely be the problem here after the leak or is there anything else that I can look at?. For example is there a valve on the drain spot that he used today likely be the problem or anything else that you can advise.

The guy who fixed the leak today is coming back on Wednesday but I wanted other thoughts on this please.

It's not a combi boiler - I have the copper tank in airing cupboard and header tank in loft system.

Finally how do I fix the bleed valves so that they can be bled - I don't want to force them open but I would like to be able to bleed them especially after the 2 "drain downs"

Any thoughts and advice on this? - I can't confirm the leak fixed until its been tested by my heating.

Apologies if this post should be central heating but I think the issue now is connected to the pipe that was leaking - no other changes have been made and heating has been fine since last drain 13 days ago.

Thanks.