Hi,
I am an experienced DIYer and have replumbed my 3 bed house with already installed combi boiler. Central heating in speedfit, cold feed from stopcock to boiler in cooper and all pipes below boiler in cooper (up to 1m). I now want to check the tightness of all installation. As you can see from the photo there is no radiators, I left this arrangement with pipes ready to be connected when all house is renovated. Could you please advise:
1. If I want to air test it. Should I shut off flow and return valves on the boiler and then join flow and return pipes in one of the radiators location as shown in red line and then use speedfit stop ends in all other radiators location with those pipes protruding? It means I closed the CH system and can use inflator to required pressure? Is my thinking correct?
2. How I should air test hot water. See photo below boiler in red, valve NO. 2, as there is no valve to close it. If I shut off all isolation valves close to taps and in one location I can use inflator but my concern is that I do not know why there is no hot water valve in the boiler to shut it off (possibly because it leaves the boiler but it casing my air test problems 🙂 and would I not damage something in the boiler if pressure would go from this side hot water ( hot water leaves the boiler here but the air pressure will be entering from that side if done on hot water only so would I not damage something inside the boiler?)
3. Or do you air test cold and hot water together, so should I open valve number 3 with cold feed to boiler and then air pressure in some location to cold feed pipe and shut off all hot and cold isolation valves close to taps and thus the pressure will be introduced from cold feed, through the boiler and then to hot water? does it work like that and in that direction I will not damage the boiler? This is not clear to me and I do not want to damage the boiler.
4. The last thing, the plumber installed a new filling loop, as I did not want to work on the boiler, and my question is, should this screw in red be completely tightened (closed), this is not isolation as you can unscrew it completely? What is the purpose of that as there are two other black iso valves.
Thank you in advance for all for your help.
I am an experienced DIYer and have replumbed my 3 bed house with already installed combi boiler. Central heating in speedfit, cold feed from stopcock to boiler in cooper and all pipes below boiler in cooper (up to 1m). I now want to check the tightness of all installation. As you can see from the photo there is no radiators, I left this arrangement with pipes ready to be connected when all house is renovated. Could you please advise:
1. If I want to air test it. Should I shut off flow and return valves on the boiler and then join flow and return pipes in one of the radiators location as shown in red line and then use speedfit stop ends in all other radiators location with those pipes protruding? It means I closed the CH system and can use inflator to required pressure? Is my thinking correct?
2. How I should air test hot water. See photo below boiler in red, valve NO. 2, as there is no valve to close it. If I shut off all isolation valves close to taps and in one location I can use inflator but my concern is that I do not know why there is no hot water valve in the boiler to shut it off (possibly because it leaves the boiler but it casing my air test problems 🙂 and would I not damage something in the boiler if pressure would go from this side hot water ( hot water leaves the boiler here but the air pressure will be entering from that side if done on hot water only so would I not damage something inside the boiler?)
3. Or do you air test cold and hot water together, so should I open valve number 3 with cold feed to boiler and then air pressure in some location to cold feed pipe and shut off all hot and cold isolation valves close to taps and thus the pressure will be introduced from cold feed, through the boiler and then to hot water? does it work like that and in that direction I will not damage the boiler? This is not clear to me and I do not want to damage the boiler.
4. The last thing, the plumber installed a new filling loop, as I did not want to work on the boiler, and my question is, should this screw in red be completely tightened (closed), this is not isolation as you can unscrew it completely? What is the purpose of that as there are two other black iso valves.
Thank you in advance for all for your help.
