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View the thread, titled "Baxi Megaflo Boiler - 'crackling' noise & heat loss" which is posted in Boiler Advice Forum on UK Plumbers Forums.

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H

hastings

Hello,

I have recently had a Baxi Megaflo boiler fitted. After a lot of effort the radiators were balanced and appeared to work okay although there was a bit of ‘crackling’ noise from the boiler (this was particularly bad when the hot water was switched on) and was believed to be air in the system which I was told should be expelled in time through the automatic vents.


Obviously during the warm spell the heating was very rarely used and now I have come to need the heating again I have noticed that there are a few problems. To begin with the ’crackling’ noise is a lot louder/heavier and now happens when the central heating is on as well as the hot water.

I have had a Baxi technician out to have look at this as I believe through desperation my fitter thought that the boiler itself may have been faulty. The technician diagnosed the problem as being not air but a resistance to flow in the return pipe. He indicated that this could be a very big job in trying to locate and resolve the problem. After 6 months of renovation we couldn’t face more upheaval.

The second point is that the top floor radiators of my three story house do not get any heat to them at all now. All of the other radiators around the home heat up quite well initially and then after a hour or so several of them cool off completely.

Does anyone have any ideas as to how I can maintain heat to all the radiators and hopefully to reduce the ’crackling’ noise around the pipes near the boiler.

I don’t want to call the fitter out again as I have lost all faith in his ability and can’t take any more of his excuses.
 
Was the fitter a Baxi Bonus fitter ? Did you get the 2 year warranty ?
If its a flow problem you really should get the fitter back , and more to the point he should come back ASAP.
 
sounds like some of the air has been expelled through the aav,s so you will need to top the system back up to about 1.5 bar pressure to get the top floor working , also did the fitter install an automatic bypass as this is now a manufacturers reccomendation on all new boilers to make sure you get the correct flow rate through the heat exchanger , i would get someone out to check on this and the state of the system water as it should have been flushed prior to fitting and then treated with an inhibitor after , also as a precaution i always put in an internal leaksealer to cure any existing small probs
 
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