Connecting to cast iron soil stacks??

[mutley racers]

About a month ago I posted a thread about connecting plastic to cast iron soil pipe. Into the collar I was asking about. But after finding out it was 31/2 inch I had to just use a French on the lead coming out of it. But now, I have one that is 4inch and so I cut the cast iron back to a collar. Or what I thought was the collar, and there was no brass like what was suggested in last thread. And, the connection seems to be bordering the very edge of the collar, if it is a collar. So, I shall send you a pic to see what options I have.

 

[chris watkins]

Two options
1. buy a suitable Time saver coupling to connect onto the cast & then the your selection 110mm plastic or 100mm CI.
2. using a big gas torch melt the lead out of the collar, pull the spigot of CI out, watch out for the supper heated yarn as it hits the air & ignites. let it cool back down for a couple of hours clean it up & then caulk in your choice of 110mm plastic or 100mm CI. (use cold caulking compound if using plastic).
I know which option I would go for. !!!!

 

[snowhead]

The collar / socket is on the end of the pipe sticking out of the wall.
You've cut the elbow and left part of it in the collar, the socket on the elbow is pointing up to the straight piece of pipe.

What caused the job in the first place?

 

[mutley racers]

Chris, there isn't any lead inside the collar? it just all cast iron as you can see from the picture. so am wondering how I can take out the cast iron from the collar and put one of those 4inch rubbers in there with a bit of 110mm.

Snowhead, I am putting in a new en-suite and the shower out let is only about 30mm above this, and so i needed to connect into it as far down as possible

 

[tamz]

Heat it out or cut behind the collar and use a timesaver collar as Chris said or take your grinder and make half a dozen cuts on the bit pipe towards the collar then split the cast using a hammer and chisel in the cuts and into the caulked joint and pick it out which will let you use the rubber insert.

The existing cast joint is made using lead and rope yarn.

 

[mutley racers]

Oh I see. I did not know it was made of yarn and lead. The lifesaver collar, do I get this from drain centre then? When I look it up on the net, it says for drainage.

 

[mutley racers]

Tamz, is it easy to break the collar when chiseling out the existing bit. I really want the quickest solution and most cost effective.

Cheers guys

 

[tamz]

Any plumbers merchant will probably have them in stock and definitely at drain center. You need to ask for a 4" cast to 4" plastic timesaver collar (td02 i think). About £12 - £20 depending on if they like you :smile:
Never had a collar break off but it can happen i suppose.

 

[REDSAW]

toolstation

 

[stevetheplumber]

id angle grind the collar of and use a fernco rubber to join a spigot bend onif your realy struggling for hieght you could posibly get a short boss pipe in there on the vertical and push the rubber over the socketb one end then turn up using a long tailed spigot short radius bend not ideal at the bottom of a stack but would work ok

 

[mutley racers]

My plan is is to get a three sectioned tee piece that has front and side outlets so I can go left to pick up shower and toilet, straight up for the vent and and access cap for prodding at the front. So, can you get timesavers in Toolstation then Rwdsaw?

 

[mutley racers]

well, i went back there today and thought I would try and do it the way Tamz said, by removing the lead and rope yarn. So I did, after about 45minutes of chiseling. And, I was actually chuffed! Then, off to drain centre to go and get my OSMA cast collar to plastic rubber. Low and behold, i could not get one. Very annoying!! And then i asked for a triple sectioned tee piece. Which he said, only comes in Grey.. I said, No worries i can pain it black. Then i asked the question, How much, to then he replied...£89.99. I was like what? you have got to be kidding me. And, he was not. Does anyone know where i can get these fittings? That don't cost that much and in Black would be prefered. What i want it, the triple Tee section but not in the shape of a cross, but basically form a right angle and the end I can put an access cap in.

here is a picture of my hard work this morning any way. i am chuffed i actually got to have a go

 

[Ray Stafford]

Do you mean one of these?

Polypipe RCB104B - list price is a staggering £127.96 + vat, so whilst they weren't being generous, they weren't ripping you off.

Ray

 

[chris watkins]

What you need is a standard 110mm branch up to WC & use one of the cut out boss cons via a boss adaptor to pick up the shower (you can get bent as well as straight).
It's all about knowing what the material range (& cost) & what you can do with them to overcome problems. Can't teach you that in a college !!!!!

 

[tamz]

Do you mean one of these?

Polypipe RCB104B - list price is a staggering £127.96 + vat, so whilst they weren't being generous, they weren't ripping you off.

Ray

well maybe a wee bit :wink:

 

[mutley racers]

Wow that makes it seem almost reasonable. I was wondering if there is anything wrong with just coming out the cast iron with a ling radius bend with access facing the right send the teeing of fir the vent, toilet and shower? So not going straight up for the vent from the cast iron collar but elbow to the right send then tee? What do you think. I like what you say Chris but I have already connected toilet and shower into stack

 

[Ray Stafford]

well maybe a wee bit :wink:

I'm certainly preferring Chris Watkins solution.

I asked Polypipe once how they justified the price, and they said that they made so few of them that they are actually done by hand - an ordinary tee is butchered and the extra connection solvented on. When you look at one carefully, you can see that it isn't moulded in one piece. I presume that it wasn't worth the cost of tooling up for it.

 

[tamz]

Well done for having a go Mutley. Easy init :lol: You will do it quicker next time.
If you are having trouble getting an osma adaptor get some PC4 and a bit rope yarn and caulk it in. You really should use a caulking chisel but an old blunt screwdriver, a bit flattened pipe or small chisel will do, just a bit harder.
A cut down loose collar caulked in takes up some of the space then makes the joint a pushfit.

 

[tamz]

I'm certainly preferring Chris Watkins solution.

I asked Polypipe once how they justified the price, and they said that they made so few of them that they are actually done by hand - an ordinary tee is butchered and the extra connection solvented on. When you look at one carefully, you can see that it isn't moulded in one piece. I presume that it wasn't worth the cost of tooling up for it.

A hot poker and some gap filler :lol:

I'd go with chris's method too.

 

[tamz]

Wow that makes it seem almost reasonable. I was wondering if there is anything wrong with just coming out the cast iron with a ling radius bend with access facing the right send the teeing of fir the vent, toilet and shower? So not going straight up for the vent from the cast iron collar but elbow to the right send then tee? What do you think. I like what you say Chris but I have already connected toilet and shower into stack

Never noticed your post Mutley. If you have room to do that it is a better solution.

 

[chris watkins]

A hot poker and some gap filler :lol:

I'd go with chris's method too.

Well thank you kind sir's :blush5:, BTW my yarners were always flattened bits the galv conduit nicked of the sparks, well for LCC any way.

 

[tamz]

I must have 2 dozen of then lying around, different sizes for different joints all given to me by guys i worked with. Caulkers and stavers.
For those who don't know, the caulker is long and thin to get the rope down the joint and the staver is shorter and blunt for finishing the lead.

 

[mutley racers]

Blimey, I just read my last post and am sorry. It doesn't really make sense. I sent it last night from bed, RUSHED as my wife was complaining that it is not time for the forum. He he

But what I meant was, coming out of the cast collar with a 90 bend to the right, then a tee into that, upwards for the vent and then to pick up soil stack from the right? It should be fine hey, and I do have the room for it Tamz.

I want to have a go at the rope thing but am bit worried. Is all experience though. Thanks fellers I shall let you know how I get on. And I am not back at the job till Monday so shall try and order a rubber OSMA. the easy option I know.

Hand made hey, now am beginning to understand the price. Still doesn't justify that price for me though

 

[Plum Bob 66]

Would be interested to see a snap of the finished job when your done Mutley.

 

[Bernie2]

Tamz I think your giving a history lesson now 🙂, talking about caulking irons. Bent, straight, curved and all kinds of widths, as you say, they seem to be a thing of the past now. Every time I see a piece of 3/16" now, my back and other parts start to ache with the memory of Spanish windlasses and miles of the stuff. The sound of the buzzer sounding in my ears, the mud up to your backside, the exploding lead running out from around the squirrel you could not get quite tight enough as it hit the pool of water

EEK! There are plenty of good reasons that I like being retired.

The games okay on a lazy sunny day, but in a freezing Winter when your soaking wet and dirty and have to stay that way all day with overtime as well if required!! But then its been goodish to me and supplied me with a living for years.