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draining down of static caravan

View the thread, titled "draining down of static caravan" which is posted in UK Plumbers Forums on UK Plumbers Forums.

O

owington

Hi, when draining down a static for winter is it just a case of turning off mains opening all taps and all drain valves under van. Also what is the best method for topping up antifreeze in a pressuried system without draining full system and refilling?
Thanks for any help
 
To drain down. I would also disconnect the pipe from the main stop tap to allow all water in pipes to run back out.

To add antifreeze you will need to remove some water. And you can then pump back in using a pressure test pump. Or garden sprayer using apporiate fittings
 
Agree with everything Simon has said

Also use the anti freeze in the toilet bowl, I do quite a lot of work on statics and this does create an issue.

REMEMBER to also open the shower. I have replaced 2 bar mixers showers in the same caravan in 2 years because the owner failed to do this.

You can only bar the showers from the manufacturer of the caravan, who in turn only sell to the site owner/manager.
 
Hi,
I agree with all that has been said. I have done a number of frozen pipes on statics and it realy is important to get the water out of the pipes and not just turning off stop tap. Most of the damage seems to occur at the plastic elbows where a little water sits in them. A couple of years ago I had to replace pipe work that had split inside the van and was insulated. I have come across a device used in caravans/motorhomes where you can blow out the pipes from the taps once you have disconnected at the stop tap.
Cheers,
Rob
 
Cheers,
Have just started work at a holiday park and been thrown in at the deep end with no training. Not familiar with some of the boilers on site (Fagor Feb 20, and 24 E for example) and the site manager has said the last fitter used to disconnect parts inside the boiler to drain properly. I cant see why although i have read in the MI's some boilers have a drain plug fitted to DHW side for draining purposes. The CH side is left pressurised with antifreeze while the park is shut.
 
Good point about the boilers. If there is an obvious drain valve then use it. Not sure about the CH side, make sure it is a good anti-freeze as we do seem to be getting some extreme cold and -10 does not seem to be out of the question. Good luck with your new job, once you have got through a winter you will have a great time.
Cheers,
Rob
 
Thanks mate, like a fish out of water at the minute having worked mainly on domestic installs in the past 4 years but i guess ill have to pick it up as i go along as im the only permanent fitter on site. Not sure what the previous fitter was removing on draindowns, sounds like he may have been bumping up his site hours.
 
I enjoy working on caravan sites, at least you can get to all the pipe work and all the water drains out onto the concrete hard standing.

Mind you had to loose a couple of pound to crawl around underneath..... worst fear, getting stuck, how embarrasing.
 
btw, after filling systems with glycol ciculate it, to get a good mix,

if you want to be sure your filling them with enough glycol, you need a refractometer and you will be looking for atleast 20% glycol
 
Thanks mate, drained a small amount from rad bleed nipple today on first van and using refractometer showed a reading of 10%. Will have to look into it tomorrow. Thought i was gonna have to shut all rads and then drain one off and fill with glycol then refill. Didnt realise you could pump it through into the filling loop as someone has suggested to me today, like i say its all new to me. Thanks for all the advice.
 

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