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solutions

Plumbers Arms member
Plumber
Gas Engineer
Aug 26, 2012
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The Green Grass over there.
Been out to look at a betacom 30 in a multilet dive. Expansion vessel lost charge eons ago and custard has been resolving the problem with endless top ups. I have the mi's but they are sparse on fault finding tips or diagnosis trees other than a board connection diagram. The boiler will not fire and will not clear the no flame led lock out led. My suspicion is given that it does not attempt to commence a burner sequence that either the board is duff, low water pressure switch has gone or condensate trap probe or something else that would interupt the sequence before it even gets started. 230 at board but Fan doesnt get to turn. Pump doesnt run nothing and cant clear lock out led. Any pointers greatly received. Will probably call Glowworm Monday but I suspect I may get more usefull information here.
 
I've got a callout to the same boiler, these are headlines aren't they ??

my problem, boiler lights an ignition carry on sparking for a good 10 seconds then drops out ?

am off there in a minute, my first thought maybe board, flame rect ? Leads ?

if this is more or less a heatline under a different badge, is it true that both the gas valve an board have a tendency off boing going at same time ?

thanks
 
Water pressure switch should be closed when in pressure. U could just short it out. Would check pump is free by rotating it with a small flat head if it's been dropping like a ****** draws then it's probably a hydraulic component ruined ? Although some boilers when they enter fault keep fan spinning so if all hydraulic components check out out see if you have 240v at fan.

Good luck
 
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Water pressure switch should be closed when in pressure. U could just short it out. Would check pump is free by rotating it with a small flat head if it's been dropping like a ****** draws then it's probably a hydraulic component ruined ? Although some boilers when they enter fault keep fan spinning so if all hydraulic components check out out see if you have 240v at fan.

Good luck

Any tips for us pal 😉
 
Yeh test leads and burner back to earth. Remove gas valve check it's clear . When installed and in operation give it a few sharp raps on its side, check solenoid.

Remove green lead from conny trap can sometimes set a fault but it normally causes pre ignition lock out but can cause rectification stray voltages. Gas valve and board possible. Check that boilers getting clean air and the too end isn't split or blocked!

The most viable and sensible fix would be new boilers!
 
Yeh test leads and burner back to earth. Remove gas valve check it's clear . When installed and in operation give it a few sharp raps on its side, check solenoid.

Remove green lead from conny trap can sometimes set a fault but it normally causes pre ignition lock out but can cause rectification stray voltages. Gas valve and board possible. Check that boilers getting clean air and the too end isn't split or blocked!

The most viable and sensible fix would be new boilers!

cheers mate, it's for my mate simply won't have the money to be honest.

these are a heatline in disguise aren't they ?
 
Yeh test leads and burner back to earth. Remove gas valve check it's clear . When installed and in operation give it a few sharp raps on its side, check solenoid.

Remove green lead from conny trap can sometimes set a fault but it normally causes pre ignition lock out but can cause rectification stray voltages. Gas valve and board possible. Check that boilers getting clean air and the too end isn't split or blocked!

The most viable and sensible fix would be new boilers!

I agree but customer isnt going to stretch to that at least not fir another year or so. Of course if the faults prove expensive to repair he may change his tune.
 
before spending hundreds on a cheap boiler like this be aware glowworm do a fixed price call and fix for about £240 could be best route no hassel for you
 
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