Ideal Isar 24 HE

[bonesy60]

Just been out to one of these the hot water works fine but no central heating when switched on the display shows 7 then 0 then d for dhw pre heat the burner lights after about 30 secs it shuts down the burner gave it 2 mins for the pump over run but but did not go back to 0 for standby. The pump keeps running if I create a demand for heating the boiler just keeps flashing the burner light and d is on the display any ideas cheers Ian.

 

[Paul Barker]

Isolate cold feed under boiler. If it now works you have a leak or dripping tap.

If that's not it first in all cases like this short out the demand to eliminate external controls.

 

[quality]

I have had problems with diverter valves on these boilers, but first try as paul suggested as could be there is no demand from external controls

 

[buster gonads]

I dont even go out to these boilers anymore as IMO they are a load of crap, yet warm front are still happy to fit the all over the place.

 

[stevetheplumber]

I dont even go out to these boilers anymore as IMO they are a load of crap, yet warm front are still happy to fit the all over the place.

what he said +1

 

[RoryD]

Why don't you phone Ideal up?

 

[bonesy60]

Cause when I posted it was 10.30 at night and they are shut at that time lol.

 

[Dave]

I have one and have had nowt but bother with it.....last xmas it was toally rebuilt by Ideal..( i have cover on it) and it broke down again 2 weeks back and has only just been fixed...yet Another heat xchange unit..

It is coming out this year...🙁

 

[Blackcatgas]

what he said +1

+2 we used to fit them for the housing assocition, they were problematic from the moment you first tried to commision them, the water they had left in them from pressure testing at the factory used to corode the pump and make it sieze, they also air locked very easily taking ages to fire up on initial commisioning (sp).

 

[bonesy60]

Spoke to the customer and they had got a dripping tap in the bathroom screwed it shut and the heating fired up, thanks for the help guys Ian.

 

[RoryD]

Hate working on these.. the sump gets blocked up with clinker, check the sump cover. The "cure all" seems to be the condensate trap... All fault finding takes you back to here.. unbelievable..even worse than Ferrolis (my pet hate at the moment)!!

 

[mikeymike]

Just been out to one of these the hot water works fine but no central heating when switched on the display shows 7 then 0 then d for dhw pre heat the burner lights after about 30 secs it shuts down the burner gave it 2 mins for the pump over run but but did not go back to 0 for standby. The pump keeps running if I create a demand for heating the boiler just keeps flashing the burner light and d is on the display any ideas cheers Ian.

hi iv have the same problem but only i dont have a leaking tap.. i had a power cut 2 days ago and im left with no heating 🙁 but iv got hot water.. its the same boiler ideal isar he24!!! iv rang ideal they told me its an external controlls fault..not sure what they mean.. can it be fixed if so how please help... 😕

 

[payney1974]

if your boiler has " 0 " on the front it means there is no demand, is your timeclock turned on ? is your room stat set high enough for the heating to come on? if yes to both there is a problem with your room stat or clock or loose wire, cant diagnose faults like these without seeing in the flesh.

 

[Puddle]

These boilers have a thermistor probe in the plate heat exchanger, not a hot water flow switch
this keeps the water in the plate heat exchanger hot all the time ready for use, when hot enough the motor on the diverter valve is activated and boiler goes to heating water mode
This is way the dripping tap keeps boiler on hot water mode with no heating as hot water in boiler will never get hot enough to change to heating as looseing temp through tap, same as the old potterton puma which had wax capsule
So the problem is some were in the link when the boiler acts like above it will be the probe, motor on top of the valve or valve its self sticking as has to spring back up and this sticks also
This is why fitters do not like boiler, it as has the same common faults due to various possible parts going wrong, usually its one common fault caused by one part
Simple checks, if you remove the motor head and turn boiler off then on you will see motor move, if not possible motor, once motor head off diverter valve body the pin at the front should move freely, if not remove front on valve and lubricate pin, this only usually causes heating to come on with hot water
If motor ok and valve head then probable cause probe in plate heat exchanger located under boiler at rear
Can be tested with multi meter

Ref the power cut ,Ideal are thinking maybe external controls need resetting or may have been damaged if there was a power surge,you will have to make sure power to heating side of boiler

 

[mikeymike]

hi
the programmer is on...i dont know how to reset it after a power surge..😕. i think thats the only problem as it was working fine before!! can anyone help please...🙂
its a honeywell programmer

if your boiler has " 0 " on the front it means there is no demand, is your timeclock turned on ? is your room stat set high enough for the heating to come on? if yes to both there is a problem with your room stat or clock or loose wire, cant diagnose faults like these without seeing in the flesh.

yes bolier is on " 0 " heating set high and even bleeded the radiators incase of airlock....reset the programmer which is connected to mains and bolier but no luck...
the display also shows "7" then boiler hums burner light comes on...shows " t"
30 secs then back to "0". put the central heating to "on" but there is no sound or the pipe getting hot... there is no loose wire i have checked.. the clicking noise is comming from a red box thingy....sorry dont know what it is called?? any ideas?? thanks🙂

 

[Puddle]

hi
the programmer is on...i dont know how to reset it after a power surge..😕. i think thats the only problem as it was working fine before!! can anyone help please...🙂
its a honeywell programmer

sorry when i say re set all i mean is check programmer is on and calling for heating and any electronic wall thermostats are also calling for heating at boiler ,other than that it is a engineer required

 

[mikeymike]

hi what so u mean calling for heating...if you mean all set to "on" then yes... clicking sound is still heard not all the time....just want boiler fires and shows 7 and then t and then d...

 

[payney1974]

you should only see the " 7 " on the display when you turn the boiler on from being off at the 1 / 0 rocker switch on the front of the boiler, the 7 is just showning the engineer what position the jumpers are in on the pcb ( the pcb is universal across the he range icos and isar boilers you just arrange the jumpers to suit) if you know an electrician or good gas engineer get them to check the switched live on the black plug underneath the boiler, if you havnt got 230 - 240 volts there there is a problem with the external controls not your boiler. This is the only way to check dont take any notice of people saying change this change that you'll waste alot of money!!

 

[the baker]

I have one and have had nowt but bother with it.....last xmas it was toally rebuilt by Ideal..( i have cover on it) and it broke down again 2 weeks back and has only just been fixed...yet Another heat xchange unit..

It is coming out this year...🙁

How much is the cover costing and who offers it at a reasonable price?

The reason I ask is because a few unfortunates I know have got Isars from Warmfront and I am worried they may get lumbered with a large repair bills once the warrentee runs out and am trying to get them to take out some cover before their boilers go wrong.

Tim,

 

[mikeymike]

hi
thanks payne1974.. gret piece of advice..!!🙂 yes the 7 just comes and goes...when i turn the heating on it displays "c" meaning central heating is on.. programmer is turned on room stat is on...but there is a clicking noise from the left of the bolier...due to the power cut im left with no heating..boilerr know that it is in demand but the pressure gauge wont budge.. normaly i would hear a loud clang...and the rads would start to warm up.. ?? any more ideas...getting some one to come out today... but LOOK AT THE WEATHER....!!! i doubt any1 is free.?? will try though...
thanks

 

[Puddle]

hi
thanks payne1974.. gret piece of advice..!!🙂 yes the 7 just comes and goes...when i turn the heating on it displays "c" meaning central heating is on.. programmer is turned on room stat is on...but there is a clicking noise from the left of the bolier...due to the power cut im left with no heating..boilerr know that it is in demand but the pressure gauge wont budge.. normaly i would hear a loud clang...and the rads would start to warm up.. ?? any more ideas...getting some one to come out today... but LOOK AT THE WEATHER....!!! i doubt any1 is free.?? will try though...
thanks

Well your clicking sound will be the motor on diveror ,so you are back to may original post,power cut could just have been a coincidence

 

[payney1974]

Ok if " c " is showing and boiler fires then goes off after less than a min but your hot water works it is probably the diverter valve stuck in hot water mode, that is probably why you hear the div motor clicking (it hasn't got the power to move it ) you havnt had any fault codes have you? Ie " l9 "

 

[mikeymike]

hi
there are no codes showing just the normal 'd' when hot tap is in use and 't' when heating up plate and when the central heating is turned on it shows 'c'...
i think the same..how do you fix this prob??
thanks

 

[payney1974]

I wouldn't like to say for sure without lhaving the boiler in front of me but from what you say it does sound very much like the diverter valve ( I would replace motor and body ) this is a job for a professional.