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View the thread, titled "lead work help ?" which is posted in Gaining Plumbing Experience on UK Plumbers Forums.

northstar

Plumbers Arms member
Plumber
Hi is there anyone on this site who specialize in lead work, or any sites ? need some advice regarding a flat bay roof ? many thanks
 
it is a flat bay roof, it has lead on it at the moment. It is 3.2m wide by 60cm depth what is the required code of lead? do you require a expansion joint for such a width?
 
i think you need an expansion joint every 1m although not an expert. justlead will be able to help
 
The length of each piece of lead will definately depend on the code used. The minimum you can use in this case, is 1.5m of code 4. I would tend to use code 6 for a quality job. But in any event if its fitted badly it don't realy matter. Useful reference from the lead developement association book.
 
You will need to split it into 2 bays with a roll. Could be done in code 5 but 6 will be better.
You can get advice from the LSA.

If you have never done this before get someone to do it. It will look better and be done right😉

It is not as easy as it looks.
 
Have you thought about the prep: Good firm 3/4" Ply base and should also be lined with Erskin felt before the lead gets laid.
 
might give it a go. if not at least i am geting the know how. How would you overlap the lead,or is there a particular joint you would use ? and would you use sealant? many thanks for all the replys so far. cant have enough knowledge 🙂
 
If you need to join on the flat. Normaly use a lead roll for the overlap. This is a very skilled to get a good job. Normaly its the back and front which is the difficult bit because they need to be properly dressed with out thinning the lead.
 
It is done with a wood cored roll like this
wood cored roll.JPG

It is not an easy thing to do. If it is done badly it will need done again in a few years if you are lucky.
Sealants are not used. Normally the underlay is now geotex.
 
Proper lead rolls are formed by 2" Round to Oval profile of timber with flate base. You take your bottom lap over the top a about 1" down the other side. Your top lap goes right the way over and out on the flat the other side about 2".

sopleyChurch-lead-big.jpg
 
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Hi tamz it is a curved bay window, so if you used the wood roll to form the lead, i assume you would have to weld a bit on the front of the roll ?
 
Hi I have done a bit of this. There are one or two points to consider. If using say code 5 sheet lead (the thinnest i would use) it is likley to cost £200 for the size you describe. The methods that are used are bossing and or lead welding and i think its fair to say they do not come naturally. The risks being, you damage the sheet lead beyond repair or burn the property down. The upside being once completed it will have a life expectancy in access of 70 years ( I done a bit in Paris that was 15 century, they wanted a bit added) However if its low level it may well get nicked.
If i can be of help i will. Which can include making it to an accurate drawing, photos and posting it for you to fit.
 
Everybody. That's how it is done. And, yes you leave the wood in.......unless you want to have a go at a hollow roll...but that is harder.

Justlead will keep you right. It is kinda his hobby😉😎
 
my mistake tamz, did not explain properly. there is a expansion joint, it looks like a rubber strip with lead either side, anyone used one? thanks
 
Personaly I think the job is going to be difficult to get right if you have no lead working experience. A good lead worker should be able to complete the task in half a day, and thats bosses no lead burning. Difficult to get good lead workers though; at a premium same as thier prices.
 
T pren expansion joint. Piece of neoprene stuck to 2 bits of lead. T pren plus has a cover flap to cover the neoprene. Sold in 3m and 6 m lengths. Not cheap.
 
thanks reg man for the advice, done all the lead work at college on 6129 assesments, getting advice for friend on how it is done properly. thanks
 

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