Leak from soil pipe

[stevo]

Hi, I have a small leak from an upstairs soil pipe. It is coming from the joint at the tee. This is where the bath waste joins the WC main pipe. Since this photo was taken the ceiling was boarded and plastered. Six months later a small (1" approx) wet spot was evident. I tend to take photo records of house renovation. Any ideas how I could seal this without major dismantling? I could probably access from above.

 

[herbert]

It's probably the rubber grommet in the boss(connection) either pull the bath waste pipe out and replace the rubber if there's one in there or just clean dry and silecone the pipe into the join

 

[stevo]

The Leak is coming from the solvent 4" (110mm) joint on the main run (arrowed). (The bath waste enters at top). Drip is definitely from the solvent joint.

 

[herbert]

It's not normally solvent weld if that's the case then cuttin it out and replacing the dammaged T is ya only safe option.It's usually push fit if that's the case I'd just change the T

 

[Ray Stafford]

It's not normally solvent weld. It's usually push fit if that's the case I'd just change the T

From the picture, it looks like a Polypipe SE60 or equivalent. A short boss pipe rather than a tee. Solvent both ends. You could try some gap filling cement.

 

[stevo]

I was thinking about that Ray. Would it be PVC or ABS cement?
I have found a product online called Fernox LS-X. It appears to be silicon based and can be applied to wet background.
Changing the fitting would be difficult as there is a bath overhead. I would just have enough room to access beneath floorboards (beneath bath)

 

[Ray Stafford]

I was thinking about that Ray. Would it be PVC or ABS cement?
I have found a product online called Fernox LS-X. It appears to be silicon based and can be applied to wet background.
Changing the fitting would be difficult as there is a bath overhead. I would just have enough room to access beneath floorboards (beneath bath)

I'm just a humble merchant Stevo, and there are plenty of guys on here more experienced in this sort of thing than me, but I wouldn't use LSX on a leak above a ceiling.

There is a specific gap-filling cement available - the polypipe code is GFC100, but to be safe it might be better to cut it out and redo it. If you bodge something easily accessible, it will last for 10 years. If you bodge something behind tiles, ceiling etc it only lasts 10 minutes. This is an immutable law of plumbing.

 

[dancinplumba]

lsx wont work, you need the stuff ray has said but you need to dry the joint before you apply and then dont let any water down pipe for 24 hrs 🙂

 

[Plamber]

You could try using CT1. But I would cut in a new fitting.

 

[Whn1]

Lsx is just a faster setting silicone, it doesn't work if applied it wet conditions. The most sensible thing to do here is replace the fitting. You'll need a coupling a boss pipe and a slip coupling.... And a tad of pipe.

 

[Howsie]

I thought LSX didn't set?

 

[stevo]

Well thanks everyone. Top advice. If pipe were more accessible I would replace. What I will do is allow to dry out and use GFC100 and hope for the best.

 

[Whn1]

I thought LSX didn't set?

its identical to clear silicone and sets the same but quicker