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Permanent build

Hello all, I have a problem on my boiler that 2 plumbers can't seem to fix so and ideas? Water started to get Luke warm a couple of months ago then would only work when the heating was on and now all that happens is the rear spindle on the diverter valve pops up and down and the boiler fires then cuts out fires then cuts and so on. I swapped the diaframs same thing happens, swapped the diverter same thing, took out the plate heat exchanger and flushed seemed clean but didn't use any chemicals same thing. The system is 3 years old and seems stupid to put a new boiler in. The fault code is hot water sensor but been told it can't be that. HELP!
 
Was told by one of my plumbers it can't be that as it wouldn't cause the spindle to pop up and down ps if I hold the micro switch in the closed position it makes no difference, doing my nut in this, one guy says I need a new boiler and the other isn't interested
 
Was told by one of my plumbers it can't be that as it wouldn't cause the spindle to pop up and down ps if I hold the micro switch in the closed position it makes no difference, doing my nut in this, one guy says I need a new boiler and the other isn't interested

You were told this by someone who couldn't fix it, yet you're happy to assume he's right?

Holding the microswitch open will fire of DHW demand. A faulty sensor will cause the boiler to modulate down prematurely. So the sensor could well be the cause. Although I'd suggest getting in a decent boiler engineer who knows how to use a multimeter, rather than diagnosis by part-swapping...
 
That's why I'm here, tbh I thought with that being the cheapest fix and also what the fault was showing. It would be daft not to swap it, il get that tried next, the 2 guys iv had out do all my boiler and gas work (I'm a a builder) and are both gs registered
 
If the fault code is saying HW sensor then for a tenner I'd be inclined to swap it.
What resistance is the sensor showing when the boiler is cold?
 

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