Replacing filling loop

[mark2422]

Hi,
I have an Artiston Combi boiler and I need to replace the filling loop as there is a leak on the valve I cannot stop now. I have attached a picture of the current filling loop and just want to ask, is it just as straight forward as buying the new filling loop shown above, and replacing my current one. I will only need to turn my water supply off and not drain the system?

thanks

 

[rpm]

Welcome to the forum mark, first thing to do is to determine exactly where the leak is, in photo #1 it could the joint above the valve or it could be where the flexi joins the valve underneath, dry tissue paper will help you find exactly which joint is leaking or is it even higher up?

 

[Unregistered]

Hey thanks for the reply. It is leaking straight out the valve. For the last few times I have needed let water into the system, I have managed to tighten the screw a little and stopped the drip. But can't do it anymore.

 

[Howsie]

How come you show up as unregistered now? Weird.

 

[mark2422]

I didn't realise I had been signed out when I replied last.

 

[Howsie]

Got ya.

Wrt, the filling loop. A straight swap will be fine, just don't over tighten and remember to remove after you've filled up the system (as per the water regulations).

 

[chris watkins]

Not sure if you are aware Mark but the one in your photo only has one isolation valve (black handle) the other end is a double check valve which goes onto the heating system if this is the same as what you have got & you are going to replace this as well (which you should) then you are going to get wet unless you drain the heating system.

Personally I would use a type that has a valve on both ends.

 

[macackau]

Also how often are you having to fill your system with water? You said the last few times? Is this a common occurrence, if so you could have a leak or another boiler related problem.

 

[wattsie1987]

A lot of aristons use smaller filling loops 1/4" the one you have is 1/2" double check it's the right size.

 

[Masood]

Not sure if you are aware Mark but the one in your photo only has one isolation valve (black handle) the other end is a double check valve which goes onto the heating system if this is the same as what you have got & you are going to replace this as well (which you should) then you are going to get wet unless you drain the heating system.

Personally I would use a type that has a valve on both ends.

<Settles into comfy chair, gets popcorn...> 😀

Let's have a heated debate...

 

[chris watkins]

<Settles into comfy chair, gets popcorn...> 😀

Let's have a heated debate...

I know I know but just to be clear double check on heating is only if he is replacing like for like, otherwise double check to protect the cold mains.

Signed anal Plumber.

 

[mark2422]

Thanks for all the replies! The one on the boiler at the moment has a valve at both ends so I will find one like that, and also the same size.

I am having to put water in every month or two. I am getting it serviced next week so they should find any problems. I just don't want to be spending £50-£100 for someone else to just swap a <£10 pipe.

 

[joni os]

Check valve at cold feed every time. Not only to be compliant with regs, but for convenience of depressurizing system. Disconnect hose at check valve, open isolation valve, boiler end and direct water into container. With an adapter to a suitable radiator this also allows chemicals to be syphoned into system.