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CXR100

Plumbers Arms member
Plumber
Gas Engineer
Feb 1, 2011
889
147
43
went to a house today , toilet overflow, simple i think , replace plastic ballvalve with a new part 2 brass one, turn watter back on, as it fills up it makes a huge water hammer thru the house, now i cal visually see the pipe vibrating from the ballvalve of the low level cistern to the floor as it has no clips on, so i clip it with s/o clips (2) . turn water back on , still the same but not as bad. so as flooring was all t&g and i cant get access to pipe to clip it under the floor i fitted a new plastic ballvalve wich sorts the vibrating problem , but it cant cope with such high pressure and is contantly dripping!!! i tried another plastic one as i thought it was faulty , still the same!! so sugested to customer about putting a prv on the incoming mains, she refused saying she likes the shower "force" . anybody know what i can do?? i have seen some side entry torbeck valves , any good??? would it solve my problem???? thanks guys!!!
 
Sounds like a prv needed, set it at 3 bar should be plenty for the household.

Not sure what ball valves your using but I have often fitted fluidmasters to solve water hammer issues on w.c's successfully before. Another option would be one of those shock arresters possibly, but not had much experience with them.
 
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it was more of a deep vibation rhather than a watter hamer as i a water hamer when a lever tap was turned off, anybody had plastic ballvalves leaking before??? i dont fit them because they ar cr*p , but i had 2 on the van in some dudley low level cistern kits, she wont let me fit a prv tho , i was thinking about one of these as they just shut off dont they Torbeck side entry float valve
 
Bugger that! I've had too many if them giving grief... Get a side entry Fluidmaster, they shut off instantly & quietly and handle low pressure right up to high pressures easily.
 
cant see what a plastic restrictor would to to be honest??? surely it does nothing to the pressure???? , cool gassafe , ill buy one of those and wait for the callback "my overflow is still dripping!!" "as i told you it would" !!!!!
 
I never fit a ballvalve brass or plastic without stripping it down first, more than likely there is a plastic burr on the seat from the injection moulding process.
 
cant see what a plastic restrictor would to to be honest??? surely it does nothing to the pressure???? , cool gassafe , ill buy one of those and wait for the callback "my overflow is still dripping!!" "as i told you it would" !!!!!

I don't want to go into any science.

The valves are designed in many different ways. And some reccomend fittings these plastic contraptions in the inlet

But I would also deffo reccomend a fluid master

Brass shank. And all round better quality
 
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cant see what a plastic restrictor would to to be honest??? surely it does nothing to the pressure???? , cool gassafe , ill buy one of those and wait for the callback "my overflow is still dripping!!" "as i told you it would" !!!!!

it won't drip with a Fluidmaster. 100% shut off! They seem to seal even better on high pressure... Screwy got some good deals on Fluidmaster stuff at the moment.. Worth stocking up, always use fill valves etc...
 
wasnt dripping from where youd think , it was dripping from the lage nut at the front that holds the "arm bit! stuck on !!! and yes i did tighten it! 😛
 

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