when faulting boilers dont forget the basics

[Billy Bob Bob]

went to a 2 year old performa 30 HE today,burner only lighting one bar,not cross lighting and locking out,no other gas appliances in the house so i crack the inlet test point,hear a hiss put my gauge on 22 mb,lights boiler it drops to zero,looks like governor issue,goes to meter,remove TP,no gas,remove meter plenty of gas,meters failed (1 year old meter:bowwow🙂 called wales and west utilities,esp turns out finds some weird grease inside the meter has gone into the gas supply???? anyway fits new meter,TT leaves me to commission GR the boiler comes back as 35 kw????? checks bp 16 mb not 12.2 mb cant get bp down lower than 8 ch,14 dhw removes modureg green gunk in gas valve looking like a new gas valve is going to be needed,now how many people on finding 22 at the inlet would after finding 240v at the gas valve gone and changed a expensive valve to find the faults still the same? dont ever forget the basics it will save you money,the outcome is still a faulty gas valve but try explaining to a custard that you faulted it right the first time

 

[Dannypipe]

Good words of advice.

How many times do we leap on something as we know it to be the 'common' problem and miss something that actually is obvious but only if you stop and think for a second!?

 

[Billy Bob Bob]

yep,its very easy to do but more damage liability a custard could would turn round and say not paying for that etc you got it wrong even though its not your fault theres some right corkers out the lads dont get caught out

 

[AlexGas]

I stick to this:

1. Visual inspection
2. TT
3. Standing pressure at the meter (to check that the governor is not locked up)
4. Working pressure at the meter (to check that the governor is giving 21 +/- 2mbar)
5. Working pressure at the appliance (to check the pipe work sizing)
9. Burner pressure
10. Gas rate

It works for me. Can’t go wrong with the above!

 

[Mike Jackson]

And while you've done all that I've repaired the boiler and am on to the next job.

 

[AlexGas]

And while you've done all that I've repaired the boiler and am on to the next job.

I take it - you did not read the first post.

 

[Mike Jackson]

I read the first post but you did not mention anything about looking at combustion issues. It read to me that every time you go to a boiler fault you carry out tightness, WP etc. which is completely unnecessary if the fault is elsewhere.

I attended a no heating from a combi last night. Hot water was fine so I knew there were no problems with the combustion so I had no need to worry about the gas side of things.

 

[Kev the gas]

4. Working pressure at the meter (to check that the governor is giving 21 +/- 2mbar)

Read more: http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/g...boilers-dont-forget-basics.html#ixzz2F8begASm

Locally Southern Gas Networks are happy to leave 17mbar @the meter working pressure :32:, unless you kick up a big fuss.

 

[arran197]

I hear you, today I had a strange one, small amount of water in the gas pipe (on an empty property) was causing the inlet to go up and down. Would fire on 22mbar, then slowly drop to 0mbar as the water got pushed up together and finally blocked the gas pipe completely. Had to drain the gas pipe and then all was ok. None had gone in the meter fortunately, it was higher than the gas pipes lowest point.

 

[mickie]

someone explain that first post..

i dont get it..

he finds ok standing pressure but low working, it turns out to be a problem with the meter and gas valve on the boiler due to something getting into the gas supply..

am i missing something, you've fixed the faults.. did you fit a gas valve when the fault was the meter? even though you say the gas valve had gunk in it too.

and whats the point in checking standing and working pressure at the meter first? i always check these at the appliance, if working pressure is low, then check at the meter, if its ok there, pipeworks too small and if its not check governor

 

[mikegas]

someone explain that first post..

i dont get it..

he finds ok standing pressure but low working, it turns out to be a problem with the meter and gas valve on the boiler due to something getting into the gas supply..

am i missing something, you've fixed the faults.. did you fit a gas valve when the fault was the meter? even though you say the gas valve had gunk in it too.

and whats the point in checking standing and working pressure at the meter first? i always check these at the appliance, if working pressure is low, then check at the meter, if its ok there, pipeworks too small and if its not check governor

He does check wp at the appliance first. The fault was with gunk in the meter which took the gas valve out. Like replacing a prv when it's the expansion vessel causing the prv to run, only in gasmans scenario it would of cost him another gas valve if he didn't check the meter as well