Hi all, would appreciate anyone's thoughts with more experience of installing whole house pumps than me (1st one).
All cold outlets are fed directly from the water mains (pressure hovers around 4 bars). I'm installing a 4.3 bar pump to pump all hot water outlets in the house only, thus balancing the pressures (or nearly anyway).
The customer has a Raeburn solid fuel cooker and so I can't install an unvented cylinder which would have been my preferred option.
The hot water cylinder is dual coil for the solid fuel cooker and a normal LPG combi boiler.
As there is no temperature control on hot water for the Raeburn I am planning on plumbing the pump in as follows: -
1.) 28mm cold feed to the hot water cylinder.
2.) 22mm tee off cold feed to hot water cylinder to supply cold inlet of thermostatic blending valve.
3.) 22mm open vent runs from top of hot water cylinder straight to CWSC as normal.
4.) Hot water supply for house drawn from 22mm Essex flange 2/3 of the way up the hot water cylinder. This goes into hot inlet of thermostatic blending valve.
5.) Outlet of thermostatic blending valve supplies hot water outlets.
The manufacturer says the cylinder has to be supplied in 28mm but my question is can anyone forsee any problems in teeing into the cold feed to supply the blending valve? My thoughts are the more cold water that needs to go into the blending valve the less that is needed to fill the hot water cylinder.
I could run a separate 22mm feed to the blending valve from the CWSC but it would be a real pain - to put it in perspective it took me 8 hours to run the cold feed in 28mm to the cylinder today. An old 200 year old cottage, never have I seen such a pain in the backside pipe run!
Thoughts appreciated before I get back to work tomorrow!
Cheers,
Keiran.
All cold outlets are fed directly from the water mains (pressure hovers around 4 bars). I'm installing a 4.3 bar pump to pump all hot water outlets in the house only, thus balancing the pressures (or nearly anyway).
The customer has a Raeburn solid fuel cooker and so I can't install an unvented cylinder which would have been my preferred option.
The hot water cylinder is dual coil for the solid fuel cooker and a normal LPG combi boiler.
As there is no temperature control on hot water for the Raeburn I am planning on plumbing the pump in as follows: -
1.) 28mm cold feed to the hot water cylinder.
2.) 22mm tee off cold feed to hot water cylinder to supply cold inlet of thermostatic blending valve.
3.) 22mm open vent runs from top of hot water cylinder straight to CWSC as normal.
4.) Hot water supply for house drawn from 22mm Essex flange 2/3 of the way up the hot water cylinder. This goes into hot inlet of thermostatic blending valve.
5.) Outlet of thermostatic blending valve supplies hot water outlets.
The manufacturer says the cylinder has to be supplied in 28mm but my question is can anyone forsee any problems in teeing into the cold feed to supply the blending valve? My thoughts are the more cold water that needs to go into the blending valve the less that is needed to fill the hot water cylinder.
I could run a separate 22mm feed to the blending valve from the CWSC but it would be a real pain - to put it in perspective it took me 8 hours to run the cold feed in 28mm to the cylinder today. An old 200 year old cottage, never have I seen such a pain in the backside pipe run!
Thoughts appreciated before I get back to work tomorrow!
Cheers,
Keiran.
