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To Oil installers:
When you put a lovely new boiler in a lovely boiler room with all your lovely wiring centres and isolator switches......PLEASE please please, put a single socket in for my hoover...


pull the L,N,E from wiring centre and just connect your hoover
 
to fix a dripping 1/4 turn tap ...
Take out ceramic discs ..thin piece of plastic (the bit that joins rawlplugs together ) ...in back groove on discs .
It pushes discs back together in fitting when refitted.
Done this a few times for taps that are constantly dripping and not had time to replace or get proper cartridges .
ps ...is temporary ;)
 
when fitting rads under a window sill measure down from the sill for top of bracket height fix brackets pop rad in place check levels and whichever side is the high spot pop the bleed valve on . I go to quite a few complaints (not my jobs) that are rads that seem un level when infact its spot on but they look out because of the sills

Had a site agent going of nut because my radiator wasnt level...infront of customer
Let him rant for a wee bit....went out and got level. was a 1600k2x300 below a low big window.
Place level on it ...just as he was slagging ALL plumbers ( he was ex vajoiner) .
Mine level...window 25mm left to right...floor 25mm opposite way

OH how I chortled ... ;)
 
Had a site agent going of nut because my radiator wasnt level...infront of customer
Let him rant for a wee bit....went out and got level. was a 1600k2x300 below a low big window.
Place level on it ...just as he was slagging ALL plumbers ( he was ex vajoiner) .
Mine level...window 25mm left to right...floor 25mm opposite way

OH how I chortled ... ;)

:smug2: When fitting a rad under a sloping cill and floor, make sure the rad fools the eye even though you might have to drop one end. Our work might be crack on but if has to fit in with whatever is already there. :wink5:
 
i know that you can solder 8mm pipe inside a 10mm pipe if you havent got a coupling, but somebody told me today if you are changing rad valves on 8mm pipes and cant get 8mm valve or a 8-10 reducer, that if you solder a 8mm coupling on to the end of a pipe, that it will fit and not leak isnide a 10mm compression joint on the valve ?????
 
:smug2: When fitting a rad under a sloping cill and floor, make sure the rad fools the eye even though you might have to drop one end. Our work might be crack on but if has to fit in with whatever is already there. :wink5:
I fit my rads level. If the floor/window/house is lopsided then tough. If you want a rad fitted which isn't completely and utterly level to the millimeter then you need another plumber!
 
I fit my rads level. If the floor/window/house is lopsided then tough. If you want a rad fitted which isn't completely and utterly level to the millimeter then you need another plumber!
Never, everything stays in uniform with me, if a sill is out a tad, my rad will be too.
 
Never, everything stays in uniform with me, if a sill is out a tad, my rad will be too.
No No No. Can't do it, won't do it. I'm a bit OCD. I have a little boat level that I use on everything. Everything must be level and correct. But luckily I haven't ever actually encountered a situation where i've ever had to hang a radiator on the ****. But yeah, I wouldn't
 
im with whn1 on this gotta look alright from a distance...
 
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To aid adding inhibitor, leak sealer or cleaner ect Make one of these up, keep compression fitting loose as then u can keep filler upright and tighten into rad. Take blanking plug out of other side as it avoids gurgling.
Solder short end of 15mm to 22/15 end feed reducer. It fits into the neck of many screw top lemonade bottles very tightly. Cut bottom off bottle & instant funnel. Or use push fit 22/15 (If you can afford the expense) which saves soldering.
 
If you have a fein or any other multi tool there blades are very expensive, keep the old blades that are worn and weld hack saw blades on the end.
 
Little tip:

Have a system of storing your everyday tools that you repeat every single day.

I have always worked this way, but did some work with another plumber the other week, and realised he didn't do as I do.

It's all about repetition so it becomes second nature. I clip my van key with a carabiner to side as soon as I leave the van. Phone goes in pocket on left thigh. On my key ring I have a vent key, a meter key, and a washer that I can use to isolate ballafix valves in a pinch.

All my tools in the tote back go back in the exact same place every day. So does everything else in the van. So when I need something, I know where to place my hands to it straight away. How people don't work with this system is beyond me, but if you are one of these people. Adopt a system and stick to it. I do it as by nature I am a skatty forgetful person. So if I don't have a system I end up leaving tools behind, losing stuff, and generally more stressed.
 
Little tip:

Have a system of storing your everyday tools that you repeat every single day.

I have always worked this way, but did some work with another plumber the other week, and realised he didn't do as I do.

It's all about repetition so it becomes second nature. I clip my van key with a carabiner to side as soon as I leave the van. Phone goes in pocket on left thigh. On my key ring I have a vent key, a meter key, and a washer that I can use to isolate ballafix valves in a pinch.

All my tools in the tote back go back in the exact same place every day. So does everything else in the van. So when I need something, I know where to place my hands to it straight away. How people don't work with this system is beyond me, but if you are one of these people. Adopt a system and stick to it. I do it as by nature I am a skatty forgetful person. So if I don't have a system I end up leaving tools behind, losing stuff, and generally more stressed.

my vans like that untill i work with an apprentice, then im hunting around for weeks trying to find tools that were stuffed in gaps or thrown in.. found a pair of 14" stilsons and some thread cutting fluid in my domestic servicing box once, thought it got a bit heavy.
 
Yeah, lads are a bit good at upsetting the apple cart, but I always explain that I'm clearly a weirdo and must maintain the system. Then they know it's me being a gimp but that's how I have to work.

That said, got out my socket set today. Everything all over the place. Last person to use it? Apprentice.
 
im with whn1 on this gotta look alright from a distance...

never fit a rad out of level unless specifically told to by customer or agent you cant argue with the bubble if they want it changed afterwards then they pay if you fit it out of level and they dont like it then you have no argument cos they will always say its your fault
 
Yeah, lads are a bit good at upsetting the apple cart, but I always explain that I'm clearly a weirdo and must maintain the system. Then they know it's me being a gimp but that's how I have to work.

That said, got out my socket set today. Everything all over the place. Last person to use it? Apprentice.
Got two new boys, finally got them to understand clean the gear away and stack it besides the van but never load it!
 
Got two new boys, finally got them to understand clean the gear away and stack it besides the van but never load it!

Risky! I don't leave a screwdriver outside job or van. Walked outside to find cordless jigsaw level and tape on the front lawn of a house on a lovely estate... Hid it then asked lad to get me jigsaw..
 
never fit a rad out of level unless specifically told to by customer or agent you cant argue with the bubble if they want it changed afterwards then they pay if you fit it out of level and they dont like it then you have no argument cos they will always say its your fault
i do fit them unlevel. Obviously telling the cust or whoever the reasons. a level rad under a drunk sill looks awfull and a rads part of the astheatics of a room. gotta agree to disagree bud.
 
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It is all about common sense when it comes to whether you fit a rad level or not ??

If it looks wrong then it is and as for deliberately asking to be paid extra to alter as far as I am concerned you would be flying off site very fast !
I have worked on listed buildings for 30 years and we even build extensions on the :censored: to suit the original !
One architect we worked with had us putting in floors on the :censored: ! It is actually harder to do that than get the string line out .
As with everything in the building trade it is all about knowing your trade and the clients expectations we have gone to war with an architect before as he was blatantly ignoring the clients instructions ,at the end of the day they pay our wages so I listen to them ?
 
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I always thought a reciprocating saw was over rated until I discovered LENOX blades it turned the saw into a great tool was really suprised at the difference which was what the guy at the fixings company said when he gave me one to try he said you will be back for more !
I was and it just shows you never stop learning !
 
I always thought a reciprocating saw was over rated until I discovered LENOX blades it turned the saw into a great tool was really suprised at the difference which was what the guy at the fixings company said when he gave me one to try he said you will be back for more !

I bought some of these off ebay and thought they were absolutely rubbish, they are not a patch on the Bosch blades, even the cheapo Silverline blades are better.

They left me in a right pickle when i was cutting a CWSC out, i will never use no name brands again because of it.
 
yes I have tried all othe brands and would say LENOX are the best not cheap though !
I think they are American ?
The ones from ebay must have been a copy I would think ?
 
Lenox are part of the Irwin family. Blades aren't cheap. Possibly fakes from china? Or wrong blade selection ?
 
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Heat up any coupling to red hot, drop in water to cool rapidly, clean up, place on end of same sized pipe as fitting, tap down (I use pipe former as flat), and the lip in middle will stretch out giving you a slip coupling, got me out of grief plenty
 
The main frustration with Plumbers Mate centers round how to manipulate it. Nobody doubts it works when applied correctly but it's just properly hard to use. If you've got to return a WC to a pre-existing dodgy-looking pan connector you've not the time or inclination (or available stock) to replace, a ring of plumbers mate round the WC spigot (properly cleaned with an abrasive pad and some wipes first - oh joy) will sort it every time.

The way I've found that works is to never handle the same mm of it for more than half a second at a time. Keep it moving from finger to finger or it will stick to you. When you've got it where you want it start proding it at a million miles an hour, really quick, soft, finger moments pressing and persuading it this way and that. It starts to mould to your will rather than act like an autonomous little beggar. Bit like the wife.
 
The main frustration with Plumbers Mate centers round how to manipulate it. Nobody doubts it works when applied correctly but it's just properly hard to use. If you've got to return a WC to a pre-existing dodgy-looking pan connector you've not the time or inclination (or available stock) to replace, a ring of plumbers mate round the WC spigot (properly cleaned with an abrasive pad and some wipes first - oh joy) will sort it every time.

The way I've found that works is to never handle the same mm of it for more than half a second at a time. Keep it moving from finger to finger or it will stick to you. When you've got it where you want it start proding it at a million miles an hour, really quick, soft, finger moments pressing and persuading it this way and that. It starts to mould to your will rather than act like an autonomous little beggar. Bit like the wife.

Don't know how we got onto plumbers mate, but back when I used that, which was a long time ago I did a couple of things.

I mixed a ball from a new tub with a ball from an old tub to give a better workable consistency. If I didnt have half an old tub, I would form a ball and roll it out on a bit on newspaper to remove some of the excess oil.

Haven't used plumbers mate for years, and don't see myself using it ever again!

Plumbers Gold on the other hand. Always carry a tube in clear and white. Lovely jollop!!
 
The main frustration with Plumbers Mate centers round how to manipulate it. Nobody doubts it works when applied correctly but it's just properly hard to use. If you've got to return a WC to a pre-existing dodgy-looking pan connector you've not the time or inclination (or available stock) to replace, a ring of plumbers mate round the WC spigot (properly cleaned with an abrasive pad and some wipes first - oh joy) will sort it every time.

The way I've found that works is to never handle the same mm of it for more than half a second at a time. Keep it moving from finger to finger or it will stick to you. When you've got it where you want it start proding it at a million miles an hour, really quick, soft, finger moments pressing and persuading it this way and that. It starts to mould to your will rather than act like an autonomous little beggar. Bit like the wife.

And the best way of getting plumbers mait off your fingers is to rub another ball of mait over it and that will snowball rather than stay stuck to you
 
Did no one ever play with putty when you were young? Fresh putty is much stickier but smells nicer.
 
Don't know how we got onto plumbers mate, but back when I used that, which was a long time ago I did a couple of things.

I mixed a ball from a new tub with a ball from an old tub to give a better workable consistency. If I didnt have half an old tub, I would form a ball and roll it out on a bit on newspaper to remove some of the excess oil.

Haven't used plumbers mate for years, and don't see myself using it ever again!

Plumbers Gold on the other hand. Always carry a tube in clear and white. Lovely jollop!!

theres no oil in plumbers mate your thinking of putty
 
theres no oil in plumbers mate your thinking of putty

There clearly is oil in it. Leave in in a warm place for 2 weeks on a tray. It will split like Beurre blanc left under hot lights. Oil makes about 15% of it. That's why u shouldn't use it to seals sleeves on gas pipes.
 
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Think you have the repair one there Tamz the standard old style is

[DLMURL]http://www.indanc.com/downloads/pdf/Evo-Stik/Plumbers_Mait.pdf[/DLMURL]

Very dangerous stuff this one LOL
i like this line best seeing as it is designed for use on waste joints
"Stop leak if possible without risk. Do not contaminate water sources or sewer. "
how does that work???
 
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one just popped to me today (im sure others will have used it plenty like as its so obvious but hey) when replacing a towel rad or standered rad upstairs and you cant find a drain off without lifting a trap or 2, find a downstairs rad has modern bleed valves you can drain straight into a large flexy tub through the bleed valve nice and easy allthough this wont allways work if all rads have been dropped from above
 
one just popped to me today (im sure others will have used it plenty like as its so obvious but hey) when replacing a towel rad or standered rad upstairs and you cant find a drain off without lifting a trap or 2, find a downstairs rad has modern bleed valves you can drain straight into a large flexy tub through the bleed valve nice and easy allthough this wont allways work if all rads have been dropped from above

That would take all day and is not the best way to achieve what you did.
 
one just popped to me today (im sure others will have used it plenty like as its so obvious but hey) when replacing a towel rad or standered rad upstairs and you cant find a drain off without lifting a trap or 2, find a downstairs rad has modern bleed valves you can drain straight into a large flexy tub through the bleed valve nice and easy allthough this wont allways work if all rads have been dropped from above

Far better to isolate valves and remove vent plug and replace with a compression coupler with a bit of pipe on it then open valves and fill a bucket or stick hose on pipe.
 
Far better to isolate valves and remove vent plug and replace with a compression coupler with a bit of pipe on it then open valves and fill a bucket or stick hose on pipe.

Isn't that pretty much what the OP is saying?
 
Keep some Vicks vapour rub in van. When your in a nice fragrant dwelling a small amount of Vicks under you nose will help u feel less dirty.
 
When fitting push fit to chrome, i literally do one rotation of an old, blunt pipeslice around the end of the pipe about 10mm in. The grab ring will sit in this score and the push fit fitting will never come off !
 
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