Need Advice about Boiler and Central Heating Repair Please

[ShaunCorbs]

Tbh next step is to remove the rad and check you have flow from each valve etc

 

[GordonGecko]

Tbh next step is to remove the rad and check you have flow from each valve etc

Okay. I'll be paying a different plumber to do that then.

Did you see the pic of the pipe which is supposed to be too thin? What is your opinion pls?

Thanks for all your advice, very much appreciated.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

It’s 10mm but it’s fine most new builds are small pipes than 10mm copper eg 10mm plastic which is around 6-7mm dia

Ideally 15mm all the way but it’s an existing heating system that was working

 

[GordonGecko]

It’s 10mm but it’s fine most new builds are small pipes than 10mm copper eg 10mm plastic which is around 6-7mm dia

Ideally 15mm all the way but it’s an existing heating system that was working

Thanks again for your time and expertise. Bloody brilliant website this is. Take care, Ian.

 

[GordonGecko]

It’s 10mm but it’s fine most new builds are small pipes than 10mm copper eg 10mm plastic which is around 6-7mm dia

Ideally 15mm all the way but it’s an existing heating system that was working

The rad with TRV which I have turned on now has a warm pipe under the TRV. Is this good news?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Yes very good keep it going / leave it as is try bleeding the rad to see if there’s any air there etc

 

[Deleted member 120897]

Just as a helpful tip more than anything, if you have a magnet, try it on the pipes that are supposed to be blocked

 

[Timmy D]

As Shaun said, close all rads, leave one open. Take trv head off and use a pair of grips to pull out/push in the pin a few times to free up any Rubbish.
Then close the lockshield valve on same rad. Put a rubble sack (something to catch water under the trv to rad connection and loosen the nut a bit (not fully) until water starts to flow out. Keep it flowing until it gets warm (keep someone else topping the pressure up as needed). Then close trv and do it to other side until both flow and return are warm.

Then open both valves/bleed and rad should work.

I never use leak sealer but it has been know to gum up valves.

 

[GordonGecko]

Yes very good keep it going / leave it as is try bleeding the rad to see if there’s any air there etc

I've been out for a few hours and returned to find the rad without TRV which I left on now has a warm pipe under where the TRV should be and the rad with a TRV which is on is actually luke warm. This looks like progress. Shall I just leave things as they are for a while?

 

[GordonGecko]

Just as a helpful tip more than anything, if you have a magnet, try it on the pipes that are supposed to be blocked

Will do. Thanks