Programmer/Controller problem

[snowglowjoe]

New to this forum, so hope it's the right place to ask my question!

Have just replaced a Danfoss FP 715 controller, with dodgy buttons, for an updated FP715 Si.

On inspecting the wall plate on the original, one of the securing screw lugs was missing, so decided to go with installing a replacement wallplate too.

Made careful note of wiring(or so I thought) and programmed the new controller.The boiler kicks in and the system runs, when no demand lights are visible on the FP715 Si? I've rechecked the electrical connections a million times to no avail.
I've spent hours over the weekend trying to sort this, unsuccessfully, knowing I'm going to be away for a few days.

I've obviously done something wrong, but for the life of me, I don't know what.

Apart from the permanent live and neutral on the wall plate, there are only 4 sets of connections(one not used). I am certainly no electrician, but this has got me beat at the moment! Beginning to wish I had gone for the easy option and used the original wallplate!

The answer is probably staring me in the face, but I can't see it!

There is an immersion heater fitted, so I just hope the weather is kind whilst I'm away and no CH is needed. Not for me, but for the householder!

All or any suggestions welcome

 

[NigelG]

Just a thought, did you check the DIL switches on the back of the programmer? Switch 2 relates to Gravity or Pumped HW, so will have a bearing on how the electrical connections are treated.

 

[fuzzy]

dont know the controls you mention but check that the numbers you use are the same on the old one, nothing to say they will mean the same, also, does this clock need a link? some do

 

[tamz]

there are only 4 sets of connections(one not used).

Sounds like you have a mid position valve. It should be wired N,L 1,3,4. Neut, Live, HW off, HW on, CH on.
What runs when the timer is switched off? heating or water? Whatever is running needs the wire moved to the right place.
Terminal 1 (hw off) receives power when the timer of off so whatever is heating when off is into terminal 1
If CH runs then you now know that wire should be removed from term 1 and put into terminal 4 (swap them over)
If you then try that and the HW runs when the timer is off then swap that wire to terminal 3 and that should be it sorted.
This was harder to explain than actually do.

 

[snowglowjoe]

Thanks for the replies gents, will ear them in mind when I get back.

DIL switches are correct

Numbers are the same as the old one

I will definitely try your procedure tamz

Happy days

 

[snowglowjoe]

Tamz,

Just spent the last 3 hours trying to resolve the controller problem and given up cos I'm hungry. Followed your procedure, without any success I'm afraid. With power on to the controller, the only way I can get the boiler to fire, is with both CH and HW set to off ( as opposed to ON, AUTO or ALL DAY). With this setting both HW and CH are on. I'm beginning to wonder if there is a problem with the mid position valve now?

Got to the end of my tether tonight and have left the occupier with the instructions to leave the controller 'as is' and just operate from the mains switch temporarily, to give hot water and rads. Far from perfect, I know.

I am also wondering if there was a problem, before I changed the programmer, but I'm assured that there was not.

Just feel responsible now and not getting anywhere.

 

[tamz]

Take the face off and test your live and neutral to confirm you have them in the right place. You'll need a multimeter or test lamp to confirm the neutral.
Then open up the wiring centre and check which wires from the timer connects to what.
from timer
1 - grey of the mid position plus a cyl stat wire (2 or no)
3 - cylinder stat common
4 - room stat common which comes back from the stat to the white of the valve

 

[snowglowjoe]

Thanks for the rapid reply tamz . Live and neutral definitely ok - already checked with multimeter - will check out wiring centre tomorrow

 

[snowglowjoe]

Take the face off and test your live and neutral to confirm you have them in the right place. You'll need a multimeter or test lamp to confirm the neutral.

1 - grey of the mid position plus a cyl stat wire (2 or no)

Just re-reading your advice - in step one, do you mean terminal 2 or normally open?

 

[tamz]

Depends on the make of the cyl stat. Honeywell is terminal 2, Some others are NO, sat or other numbers.
Basically the terminal that makes (powers) when the temperature rises and the stat switches off.

 

[snowglowjoe]

tamz,

Followed your procedure and after changing the cylinder stat, there is now hot water from all areas of the programmer. However, when there is no hot water demand (either up to temp at cyl. stat, or off at the programmer), any demand for CH locks out the boiler. Any further suggestions to end this saga?