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So it's in Central Heating mode it seems. I.e. 'permanently powered'.

Turn the system off at the isolator. Turn your mains switch at your fusebox off if in doubt. The 3PV should now revert to Hot Water mode and you should feel firm spring pressure against the lever.

If not, then it isn't working. On most valves, you can take the actuator head off without draining and put the spindle into the half way between the two extremes position to allow both CH and HW at the same time, but you'll lose temperature control of the system. Still, if you want to run it under manual control, this might be the very thing.
Hi I turned it off like you said and the lever is ok now ie it returns it has resistance..... is that al I need to do ?
 
Hi I turned it off like you said and the lever is ok now ie it returns it has resistance... is that al I need to do ?
So it's in Central Heating mode it seems. I.e. 'permanently powered'.

Turn the system off at the isolator. Turn your mains switch at your fusebox off if in doubt. The 3PV should now revert to Hot Water mode and you should feel firm spring pressure against the lever.

If not, then it isn't working. On most valves, you can take the actuator head off without draining and put the spindle into the half way between the two extremes position to allow both CH and HW at the same time, but you'll lose temperature control of the system. Still, if you want to run it under manual control, this might be the very thing.
Just turned it back on again and lever has gone slack again
 
Sounds like the valve is working correctly but being told by the system to stick to central heating only mode - except that you say you have hot water! Without testing what signals it is receiving (i.e. which wires are powered up) it is hard to be certain though.
 
So it's in Central Heating mode it seems. I.e. 'permanently powered'.

Turn the system off at the isolator. Turn your mains switch at your fusebox off if in doubt. The 3PV should now revert to Hot Water mode and you should feel firm spring pressure against the lever.

If not, then it isn't working. On most valves, you can take the actuator head off without draining and put the spindle into the half way between the two extremes position to allow both CH and HW at the same time, but you'll lose temperature control of the system. Still, if you want to run it under manual control, this might be the very thing.
It does look like the valve has gone ( there may be other issues to ) so when you take the actuator off ( silver box ) what do you set it too ? And would it be ok to use it in this mode ( safe ) for about 6 weeks ?
 
It sounds like you have established that the valve is working or at least there is a route for circulation. As you have stated that the boiler starts making noises associated with no circulation when turned on we have to look at what else could cause this, the pump has been mentioned but you seem to think it is OK so next I would check for lack of water in the system I have had a couple over the years where the float valve in the F&E cistern gets stuck & water is lost from the system to a point where it affects circulation.
Please check that the system is full of water.
 
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It does look like the valve has gone ( there may be other issues to ) so when you take the actuator off ( silver box ) what do you set it too ? And would it be ok to use it in this mode ( safe ) for about 6 weeks ?
First thing is to check on the silver box is that there is a raised dimple in the metal, if it is not there DO NOT try to remove it.
If it has then there 2 screw under the cover to take it off.
The spider can only move a small distance side to side you simple move it to the middle of its travel.
 
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Reactions: Stants and Ric2013
First thing is to check on the silver box is that there is a raised dimple in the metal, if it is not there DO NOT try to remove it.
If it has then there 2 screw under the cover to take it off.
The spider can only move a small distance side to side you simple move it to the middle of its travel.
Thanks
 

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