Toilet Cistern Overflowing (Picture Included)

[Nelder]

Quick question please, the toilet cistern is constantly over flowing and I need to adjust the fill valve.

Am I right in assuming that the part circled should turn so that it can be adjusted? Or do I just need to bend the ball cock arm?

Thanks Phil.

 

[Nelder]

If you lift the ball cock up, it does stop the water.

 

[Harvest Fields]

Neither fit a new one.

 

[Nelder]

ok thanks.

 

[Rob Foster]

Just for your info the part you circle is not the adjustment

 

[WC1]

Not a difficult DIY job, do not use cheap parts, Youtube is your friend.

 

[Harvest Fields]

Not a difficult DIY job, do not use cheap parts, Youtube is your friend.

You tube get me so much work.😛

 

[Burger]

Neither fit a new one.

Making sure you fit a part 2 or 3 and an isolation valve in the pipe feeding it. If you get like for like you need a double check valve also.

 

[Nelder]

Thanks for your advice everyone.

 

[Nelder]

Making sure you fit a part 2 or 3 and an isolation valve in the pipe feeding it. If you get like for like you need a double check valve also.

Sorry what do you mean by part 2 or 3? Im guessing the check valve requirement is due to the lack of air gap?

 

[Rob Foster]

Sorry what do you mean by part 2 or 3? Im guessing the check valve requirement is due to the lack of air gap?

Look it up on Wras website
Rob Foster aka centralheatking

 

[Best]

That is a fairly old HP ball valve.
It also has a bend on the ball valve arm to keep the float off the side of cistern.

Choice is to renew all the parts inside that valve (HP rubber washer, nozzle, brass split pin and probably washer for valve body to tail), or install a brass part 2 brass valve if it suits.
The float angle and height on part 2 valves is adjustable by a brass bolt

 

[Ben-gee]

To be perfectly frank if it shuts off fine when you lift the arm up -
1) replace diaphragm washer as it’s probably got stiff/distorted
2) if it still needs lifting to shut it off, bend the arm.

 

[Burger]

Sorry what do you mean by part 2 or 3?

Sorry, the float valve you have is part 1 (old type) part 2 is brass and part 3 is plastic both with air gaps

Im guessing the check valve requirement is due to the lack of air gap?

- correct 😀 but not needed if you install a part 2 or 3, an isolation valve is a requirement of water regs regardless, unless you opt for the repair option as suggested by some members.

 

[Tommo25]

Replace with fluid master fill valve (brass shank) model.

 

[Best]

Replace with fluid master fill valve (brass shank) model.

Side entry.

 

[Harvest Fields]

Side entry.

And the handle may be in the way!

 

[Best]

And the handle may be in the way!

I hadn’t noticed that handle! And not a lot can be done with it.
The side entry FM valve might just miss it.

 

[Nelder]

Thanks for all the advice its appreciated.

The toilet / bathroom is to be replaced next year so I opted to try bodging it first. I removed the ball cock arm and bent is slightly and its stopped over flowing now.

Unfortunately though I caused a bit of a flood whilst the ball cock was off as I had assumed the overflow would handle the water coming in but it didn't, and water was entering the cistern quicker than it could get down the over flow, this was all happening while I was in the garage bending the arm 🙁 fortunately its a down stairs toilet.

 

[Harvest Fields]

Thanks for all the advice its appreciated.

The toilet / bathroom is to be replaced next year so I opted to try bodging it first. I removed the ball cock arm and bent is slightly and its stopped over flowing now.

Unfortunately though I caused a bit of a flood whilst the ball cock was off as I had assumed the overflow would handle the water coming in but it didn't, and water was entering the cistern quicker than it could get down the over flow, this was all happening while I was in the garage bending the arm 🙁 fortunately its a down stairs toilet.

Why didn’t you turn the water off?

 

[Nelder]

The stopcock in the house is stuck open, and I couldn't get to the UU one in the pavement as there was a car parked over it.

 

[Best]

I would suggest you get the stopcock inside your house working again.
(The spindle will need scraped clean and the packing nut at spindle slackened back to clean rest of spindle before using some silicone grease and retightening the nut).
Bending the cistern ball valve arm will only have put more pressure on the valve and washer and would be best to repair it properly with new washer

 

[Nelder]

ok thanks, i will probably just replace it for a side entry FM.

I'm reluctant to spend time on the stopcock as the water main (lead) and stopcock will be replaced next year when we extend the house.

 

[Nelder]

The toilet will also be replaced along with the upstairs bathroom.

We only moved into the house a few weeks ago and its in need of some TLC, but with the pending extension and works next year I'm reluctant to spend money on things that will be getting ripped out.

 

[Nelder]

Not particularly because I'm tight but its just such a waste.