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Get it right first then ask questions, plumbers don't leave water dripping through ceiling, it might still be your fault who knows we are not there, you might fixed it yet, there won't be many plumber who have walked away from a thing like this, never be beat
 
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(1) Is water coming out the wing nuts when its just standing and not flush or is it only coming out when flush

(2) The Donuts should be soft foam/rubber a bit like armoflex at least 3/4" thick in old money

(3) Is the cistern hitting the top of the pan when the wing nuts are fully tightened

(4) If all that's OK I would do exactly like the other guys say use two

(5) I always make sure that the donut is pulled over the cistern nut, not just sat on it you loose the width of the donut


View attachment 13219

Just when its flushed. It nearly touches the pan. Could make it if I tightened harder. I too always put over nut
 
Just another thought, as it was such a bugger, how do I charge? Do I charge as though it should have taken me an hour or charge for the struggle as well? As I don't believe it was my incompetence that made it so tricky

A spare doughnut and a bit if knowledge which you now have and it wouldn't have taken any longer would it? How could you charge more than for the extra doughnut
 
I fit it altogether, use the thick doughnuts make sure its all square, it gets one chance, if it leaks, I take the cistern off then use ct1 or plumbers gold where the doughnut meets the pan.

Never had one leak after this.

Each plumber has his own method though. I've never tried two doughnuts.
 
Hi,
I'm gonna stick my head out and maybe say something stupid. Is the water definitely coming off the donut? The bolts that hold the cistern on, are the type that pass right through the cistern. If so, might it be worth slapping new rubbers on them? If not just ignore me.
 
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one of the main causes of this type of leak is that the cistern is being cranked forward by the wall thus not sitting on the pan squarely.
get this right and you dont need a doghnut.

prove me wrong, pull the pan forward!!
 
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The rubber doughnuts are not very easy to maneuver.
If I buy one it is a thick foam type one, its a good all-rounder, I have a selection of different ones in the van.
 
one of the main causes of this type of leak is that the cistern is being cranked forward by the wall thus not sitting on the pan squarely.
get this right and you dont need a doghnut.

prove me wrong, pull the pan forward!!


REDSAW,

I hope you are right but not right, I did think of saying what you just did originally, but thought no plumber would fit the cistern so it was not sitting on the pan square front to back, it's the first thing I do, just let the cistern sit there before tighten the screws, go look down the back of the wall and then under the mating edges, when I can see it's square only then tighten the wing nuts, if he comes back and says your right, well Boyle s and Charles Law and all the psychometric charts need to be re-written or I'm not a plumber.....and the first law of physics and I forgot plumbing is not going to be declared a trade next week after all. Another way is to assemble the pan and cistern before you slide it all back into the pan connector making sure when the pan is in the socket the cistern just touches the wall, look in the video below. 2 mins in if you don't want to watch all the easy bits. This is all very well unless you have a very heavy pan and cistern, I fitted a Cooke & Lewis pan and cistern at home 4 weeks back and you couldn't do it this way, much too heavy and you need to lift the pan over onto the floor brackets.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhtHpZtxd48
 
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I would also add that not all rubber donuts are made the same, I have used some that are quite hard rubber and do not squash to fit properly and normally leak. The slightly softer rubber ones are good or as others have said use both rubber and foam.
 
I would also add that not all rubber donuts are made the same, I have used some that are quite hard rubber and do not squash to fit properly and normally leak. The slightly softer rubber ones are good or as others have said use both rubber and foam.


Absolutely right Mark
 
The first time they encounter a problem that many people have fitted a new toilet tank leaks piece to be empty. This is a common problem and the answer is 99% at the same time. This tank should be installed in the toilet bowl full 90 degrees. This apartment is crushed between the two sides is as big as the toilet or donut rings, rubber washers, allows. Where is the tank, and even a little beyond the donuts and water lifts a lot of pressure, leakage is exposed.

Can you give us that in English?
 
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REDSAW,

I hope you are right but not right, I did think of saying what you just did originally, but thought no plumber would fit the cistern so it was not sitting on the pan square front to back, it's the first thing I do, just let the cistern sit there before tighten the screws, go look down the back of the wall and then under the mating edges, when I can see it's square only then tighten the wing nuts, if he comes back and says your right, well Boyle s and Charles Law and all the psychometric charts need to be re-written or I'm not a plumber.....and the first law of physics and I forgot plumbing is not going to be declared a trade next week after all. Another way is to assemble the pan and cistern before you slide it all back into the pan connector making sure when the pan is in the socket the cistern just touches the wall, look in the video below. 2 mins in if you don't want to watch all the easy bits. This is all very well unless you have a very heavy pan and cistern, I fitted a Cooke & Lewis pan and cistern at home 4 weeks back and you couldn't do it this way, much too heavy and you need to lift the pan over onto the floor brackets.

Installing a close coupled flush valve \ push button cistern - YouTube

He he he. Thanks mate. That was really helpful. Nice little video
 
Worth checking just inside the top of the pan inlet for an obstruction or buildup of scale. We are in a very hard water area and the scale can build up causing splash back.
 
REDSAW,

I hope you are right but not right, I did think of saying what you just did originally, but thought no plumber would fit the cistern so it was not sitting on the pan square front to back, it's the first thing I do, just let the cistern sit there before tighten the screws, go look down the back of the wall and then under the mating edges, when I can see it's square only then tighten the wing nuts, if he comes back and says your right, well Boyle s and Charles Law and all the psychometric charts need to be re-written or I'm not a plumber.....and the first law of physics and I forgot plumbing is not going to be declared a trade next week after all. Another way is to assemble the pan and cistern before you slide it all back into the pan connector making sure when the pan is in the socket the cistern just touches the wall, look in the video below. 2 mins in if you don't want to watch all the easy bits. This is all very well unless you have a very heavy pan and cistern, I fitted a Cooke & Lewis pan and cistern at home 4 weeks back and you couldn't do it this way, much too heavy and you need to lift the pan over onto the floor brackets.

Installing a close coupled flush valve \ push button cistern - YouTube

alot of the sanitaryware nowadays, for want of a better word is shey-ite, it's common to see the back edge of pans running off, so when you sit the cistern on, it just follows the shape of the pan.

sometimes you have to have the cistern off the level to avoid a gap at the front.

i blame quality control myself, or lack of it, it's the old stack them high, sell em cheap attitude. :disappointed:
 

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