You could wrap it with insulation tape to make it wipeable (you might even be able to fix the leak with insulation tape if you are skilled and nothing is moving. Ditto for duct tape, but probably harder to use.
You can get self-amalgamating tape, but expensive in the quantities you'd need...
I usually put the air vent where it is more likely to be accessible. Which usually means nearest the entrance. Now I wonder if I've been doing it wrong... but no doubt I'm not the only one so rules of thumb may not always work.
You could try making a bandage with a strip of cloth smeared with silicone sealant to make a form of sticky tape. I suppose if you then smeared the cloth with silicone after it had set, you might even make it reasonably hygienic in that you would have a smooth, wipeable surface.
I think you have some kind of ribbed insert that isn't quite where it should be (or needs replacing) and I'm not quite sure what I'm looking at. The bit on the right is logically a painted pan connector, but almost looks like a bit of cast-iron in this photo. It seems to insert into a piece of...
I never have, but if it were a decent place, not too corporate, perhaps a good independent, I could see myself doing this. I've worked in a food wholesalers and my family ran a small retail shop for nearly 80 years, so it wouldn't be an alien concept to me. I quite like looking after...
Grohe used to be great 50 years ago. In fact, my dad's flat has a number of Grohe items of this age still in use, though a more recent Grohe replacement only lasted ten years or so before a crack developed in the casting (unless it was leaking from day 1: I noticed, my dad didn't).
But the...
Not that I am aware. I think as long as you test that it works when installed and there remains a minimum of 25mm trap seal then you're okay.
However, if you look at ADH, it does show all basins discharging horizontally or at a slight angle which implies that that is how it should ideally be...
It must be hard to manage the business side of this forum. I'd imagine the major cost of running it is the result of use by the general public, but those of you who are here regularly and contribute to answering the many DIY questions for free may object to paying £20 a year (seems a lot when...
If rainwater pipe discharges to a combined (foul and surface water) sewer via a rainwater drainpipe trapped at the foot to prevent the escape of sewer gasses then an airbreak should probably be there to comply with the boiler manufacturer's instructions (if the drainpipe blocks, the boiler would...
I personally know a guy who used to live in Morocco. Said it hadn't rained properly for years, things don't grow properly. He is, basically, what the TV would call a climate migrant.
Sadly, you can't really choose which bits of science you want to believe in and disagree with others...
If the gate valve is required for isolation, replacement as you suggest may be a good idea if that is mains pressure water, also probably worth replacing it if it is leaking. Tightening the gland isn't normally a solution to leakage as, if it's caked with limescale, it might need repacking and...