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The reason why we say to trace the wiring is, the valves have the same colour to action. But who knows how/why/who wired it in originally, nothing is to say they followed the standard Honeywell Y plan wiring schedule, could be any manner of choc block order arangement.

Stu.
Thanks Stu for your time.
Much appreciated.
 
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If the programmer was set to gravity you can sort that out yourself by taking programmer off the wall and look at the back to see if a switch or plug is in the gravity position and not pumped. If that’s not it then like we said it’s wited up wrong somewhere, possibly programmer.
 
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If the programmer was set to gravity you can sort that out yourself by taking programmer off the wall and look at the back to see if a switch or plug is in the gravity position and not pumped. If that’s not it then like we said it’s wited up wrong somewhere, possibly programmer.
Thanks SJB for all your help.I will take it off and have a look.
Cheers Dal.
 
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If the programmer was set to gravity you can sort that out yourself by taking programmer off the wall and look at the back to see if a switch or plug is in the gravity position and not pumped. If that’s not it then like we said it’s wited up wrong somewhere, possibly programmer.

It’s a fair point mate, but his problem seems the other way to what you’d expect if the programmer was on gravity, also it was working fine before? My moneys on incorrect wiring of the valve.

But as above, double check your programmer isn’t on gravity, as mentioned. ie turn everything to off. Switch on the heating and see if the lights/selector show in for hot water also..

Stu.
 
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I think he said it’s always been like this? As you know if it was set to gravity then selecting CH would bring on HW. I’m still a bit unsure of his problem as he’s said a couple things. Is he only getting HW when CH is on?
 
If that is the case then like you say that’s the opposite of what I’d expect from programmer set to gravity and it’s wired up wrong somewhere else
 
The other possibility is is the programmer is set up correctly but there’s a problem with cylinder stat or call from cylinder stat stat to boiler live, maybe a lose wire? Yes CBW this really needs a competent engineer as there’s only so much we can do from a screen on a phone or computer lol
 
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The other possibility is is the programmer is set up correctly but there’s a problem with cylinder stat or call from cylinder stat stat to boiler live, maybe a lose wire? Yes CBW this really needs a competent engineer as there’s only so much we can do from a screen on a phone or computer lol
Thanks everyone.
I will try and make explaining a little simpler.
Before I fitted the new Valve head,when sliding the CH on it would not fire the boiler up so I had to slide the HW along to ignite the boiler.
Now after changing the valve head.
I slide the HW to on and it does not fire the boiler the same as it used to.I then slide the CH switch along and it fires the boiler.
This is what makes me think the problem is with the valve wiring as I have not touched the programmer,
Cheers Dal
 
Thanks everyone.
I will try and make explaining a little simpler.
Before I fitted the new Valve head,when sliding the CH on it would not fire the boiler up so I had to slide the HW along to ignite the boiler.
Now after changing the valve head.
I slide the HW to on and it does not fire the boiler the same as it used to.I then slide the CH switch along and it fires the boiler.
This is what makes me think the problem is with the valve wiring as I have not touched the programmer,
Cheers Dal

Ok Dal, let’s try and break this down: at any point were you able to have separate heating, separate hot water or both (mid position)? Obviously you have a wiring fault,but could have always been like that including the programmer. If you are like me and stubborn until it’s fixed then providing you can work safely maybe check this out:

Y Plan central heating system
 
Ok Dal, let’s try and break this down: at any point were you able to have separate heating, separate hot water or both (mid position)? Obviously you have a wiring fault,but could have always been like that including the programmer. If you are like me and stubborn until it’s fixed then providing you can work safely maybe check this out:

Y Plan central heating system
Thanks CBW.I could have seperate water,but when ever I put the heat on the water would have to be on to start the boiler.
 
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I’m not familiar with these corgi branded valves unfortunately. I was under the impression that the levers are for system filling and not a switch to bring on boiler? As CBW has linked, check that out. Also like he said have you ever had independent control?
In the wiring centre how many wires are in the connector with the orange boiler live?
 
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I’m not familiar with these corgi branded valves unfortunately. I was under the impression that the levers are for system filling and not a switch to bring on boiler? As CBW has linked, check that out. Also like he said have you ever had independent control?
In the wiring centre how many wires are in the connector with the orange boiler live?
Thanks SJB.I am going to have a good look at the wiring and report back to you all with what I find.
Thsnk you all for your time.Much appreciated.
 
Ok Dal, let’s try and break this down: at any point were you able to have separate heating, separate hot water or both (mid position)? Obviously you have a wiring fault,but could have always been like that including the programmer. If you are like me and stubborn until it’s fixed then providing you can work safely maybe check this out:

Y Plan central heating system
Thanks CBW.I will have a good look at the wiring and report back to you.Much appreciated for your time.
Dal
 
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Let us know what you find. I’m a bit busy for a an hour or so now but CBW and the others who commented can help. Before I go for now you say the old valve wouldn’t give CH without HW, that sounds like the second switch had packed up (assuming it’s the same principle inside as a Honeywell).
 
I’m not familiar with these corgi branded valves unfortunately. I was under the impression that the levers are for system filling and not a switch to bring on boiler? As CBW has linked, check that out. Also like he said have you ever had independent control?
In the wiring centre how many wires are in the connector with the orange boiler live?
Let us know what you find. I’m a bit busy for a an hour or so now but CBW and the others who commented can help. Before I go for now you say the old valve wouldn’t give CH without HW, that sounds like the second switch had packed up (assuming it’s the same principle inside as a Honeywell).

I think someone quoted earlier that they are similar to Honeywell.

Dal, did you try the link I sent earlier regarding the Corgi valve? https://www.banicocontrols.com/uploads/media/instruction_954311.pdf

Either way, let us know how you get on. Ciao for now.
 
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If you decide to try different wiring combinations in your connector box make sure your programmer is independently fused with a 3amp fuse! I incorrectly wired a replacement three way valve and fried mine because it had a 13amp fuse.
 

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