Accessing Flexicom 24hx installer cartridge

[Old UKPF 133155]

I've got a Glowworm Flexicom 24hx boiler and I'm trying to unplug the installer cartridge in order to wire up the ebus connection inside.

From what I've read, it should be possible to do this without opening the boiler, but there is limited access around the boiler and I'm struggling!

From the manual, it seems there are two screws securing the cartridge from the bottom. It looks like these should be where I've indicated on the photo below, is that correct?

Should the screw heads be visible? I'm thinking perhaps these screws weren't installed? Or, are they down those holes out of sight somewhere? Does anyone know what type of screws they are (it's hard to reach under and figure it out by feel the way the boiler is installed)?

If the screw heads should be visible and they've just not been installed, does that mean I should be able to simply pull out the cartridge? It doesn't want to move easily, but I've not tried pulling it too hard as I'm not sure what the deal is with those two screws.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer 🙂

Tony

 

[Ben-gee]

I imagine they are under the two white caps.
ie thd two corners you haven’t highlighted.

 

[Old UKPF 133155]

I imagine they are under the two white caps.
ie thd two corners you haven’t highlighted.

Thanks, but I'm pretty sure those aren't caps. I'm almost certain they're the heads of two push-fit connectors that hold the outer cartridge housing to the casing and shouldn't be removed

 

[snowhead]

 

[Old UKPF 133155]

View attachment 86949

Thanks, yes that’s the one. I don’t see any evidence of those screws (see my photo), but I’m not sure if I should be able to see them or if they’re in further up and the heads shouldn’t be visible. I’ve tried pulling the cartridge down, but it seems pretty stuck. Any ideas?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Thanks, yes that’s the one. I don’t see any evidence of those screws (see my photo), but I’m not sure if I should be able to see them or if they’re in further up and the heads shouldn’t be visible. I’ve tried pulling the cartridge down, but it seems pretty stuck. Any ideas?

Can I ask why you need to access the ebus ?

 

[Old UKPF 133155]

Can I ask why you need to access the ebus ?

To control the boiler over the ebus

 

[Old UKPF 133155]

[Solved] Turns out I just needed to keep pulling it harder, got it out now 😅

 

[ShaunCorbs]

To control the boiler over the ebus

Via gloworm controls ?

 

[Old UKPF 133155]

Via gloworm controls ?

No, I'm trying out an esp32 based ebus adapter that works with ebusd (I can't paste a link, sorry! I tried but it wouldn't let me post)

 

[ShaunCorbs]

No, I'm trying out an esp32 based ebus adapter that works with ebusd (I can't paste a link, sorry! I tried but it wouldn't let me post)

For control via home assistant?

 

[Old UKPF 133155]

For control via home assistant?

yep

 

[ShaunCorbs]

yep

Just a note you can’t alter the boiler temperature below 60 degrees

 

[Old UKPF 133155]

Just a note you can’t alter the boiler temperature below 60 degrees

Thanks, good to know 🙂 Are you doing the same? Did you manage to change the flow temperature using the "SetModeOverride" method? So far I have it reading everything into HomeAssistant but I've not tried setting it via that method yet as some of the state I'm seeing looks a bit different to what I've seen online.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Thanks, good to know 🙂 Are you doing the same? Did you manage to change the flow temperature using the "SetModeOverride" method? So far I have it reading everything into HomeAssistant but I've not tried setting it via that method yet as some of the state I'm seeing looks a bit different to what I've seen online.

Some what but the issue is you will need to do dual temp eg 60 for heating the cylinder up to kill legionella and then your desired flow temp for the rads eg 40

 

[Old UKPF 133155]

Some what but the issue is you will need to do dual temp eg 60 for heating the cylinder up to kill legionella and then your desired flow temp for the rads eg 40

Right, yes that's exactly what I was planning on doing. Dropping the temp when only the UFH is active and raising it when the HW is on.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Right, yes that's exactly what I was planning on doing. Dropping the temp when only the UFH is active and raising it when the HW is on.

If the boiler allows that the older gloworms were problematic to say the least don’t turn it off for long periods it might not come back on 😀

 

[Old UKPF 133155]

If the boiler allows that the older gloworms were problematic to say the least don’t turn it off for long periods it might not come back on 😀

Hah ok thanks! It all seems to be working well now, but I'll keep an eye on it 🙂