any tips for removing a stubborn Immersion Heater

[scottplumber]

I've replaced a few immersion heaters in my time but always have trouble getting them out and putting them in without a few trouble along the way. I'm in the middle of doing one now and i've left water in the tank so i can get a turn on it but its not having none of it any tips much appreciated really dont want to damage the cylinder.

thanks

 

[jonmanty]

Scott

The careful application of heat which if the cylinder is foam lagged will need to be made to the inner surfaces of the heater to avoid burning the insulation will normally get it moving.

Make sure sufficient water has been drained from the cylinder to allow the blow lamp to heat it properly. Also make sure that you,ve got enough leverage on the tool you are using but be very careful not to put too much pressure on as the boss will distort.

Jon

 

[stevetheplumber]

which spanner you got?the one to have is the cranked cast steel one a sharp tap with the club hammer usually gets it moving if not then heat and repeat

 

[scottplumber]

i use a box spanner and the cylinder is foam lagged older type

 

[scotty plumber]

chap tommy bar on box spanner with claw hammer! it works everytime!

 

[tweakyboy]

If you have tried everything above try this as a last resort!

Drill a hole in the centre of the immersion big enough to slide a hacksaw blade in, then cut up to the thread being careful not to cut into thread. Then cut another line 90º from the first cut so your cutting a 1/4 of the immersion out. I then normally cut the face of the immersion where i have just made the two cuts which then if you get a screwdriver you can then snap the 1/4 out.

Then if it still doesn't budge just cut the rest of that half out and the other side will pop out with a little tap. Its a long winded way of getting it out but if it saves damanging/replacing the cylinder then its all good.

Hope I explained this good enough.

 

[pyesmith]

Spray WD40 around it, leave it a few minuets to soak in, then try again.

 

[scottplumber]

Thanks for all the tips il give each one a try tomorrow

 

[tweakyboy]

Failing everything mentioned above...

 

[Ged Simpson]

The trouble with the box spanner when it's really tight is the torquing effort is above the hexagonal nut of the immersion and it slips off. I have successfully used a chain wrench as this cannot slip and all the effort is at the right point.

 

[SimonJohns]

Spray WD40 around it, leave it a few minuets to soak in, then try again.

How does that fair with potable water?

 

[secret squirrel]

If you have tried everything above try this as a last resort!

Drill a hole in the centre of the immersion big enough to slide a hacksaw blade in, then cut up to the thread being careful not to cut into thread. Then cut another line 90º from the first cut so your cutting a 1/4 of the immersion out. I then normally cut the face of the immersion where i have just made the two cuts which then if you get a screwdriver you can then snap the 1/4 out.

Then if it still doesn't budge just cut the rest of that half out and the other side will pop out with a little tap. Its a long winded way of getting it out but if it saves damanging/replacing the cylinder then its all good.

Hope I explained this good enough.

Now thats what I call dedication

 

[tweakyboy]

Now thats what I call dedication

Only takes about 10 minutes!

 

[Howsie]

How does that fair with potable water?

Category 2 so u wouldn't worry.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

 

[scotty plumber]

Out of sight/out of mind!:smiley2:

 

[southcoastboile]

ive used several immersion spanners and none of them seem to do the job very well. Ive got a huge pair of grips that do the job perfectly

 

[Noxer]

immersion spanner + heat and 24'' stillsons, lol use at your own risk

 

[Mike Jackson]

I've always found the cast box spanner and lump hammer trick works every time. As long as the cylinder is full it doesn't distort. I certainly wouldn't muck about cutting one out, time you do that it'll cost the custard more in labour than a new cylinder. Plus you get a good bit of scrap.

 

[southcoastboile]

ive lost count how many ive done like this, and thier grips not stillsons

 

[stevetheplumber]

I've always found the cast box spanner and lump hammer trick works every time. As long as the cylinder is full it doesn't distort. I certainly wouldn't muck about cutting one out, time you do that it'll cost the custard more in labour than a new cylinder. Plus you get a good bit of scrap.

glad we agree on the cast spanner ive never had to cut one out yet and ive ony ever split one cylinder

 

[stevetheplumber]

all this talk of cylinders has jogged my memory to the silliest mistake i made with one
called to a job with no hot water i grabbed the multimeter stuck the black lead on the cylinder and the red on the terminal to test for juice unfortunatly the last thing id done with the meter was an amp reading the black lead arced straight throught the top of the cylinder and the stream of water hit me dead center on the chest its amazing how fast your brain tells you that water and electrics loose in a small airing cupboard with you isnt a good idea

 

[midge]

I've always had good results with my cast spanner and a hammer which concentrates the torque at the hexagonal ring. My steel box spanner always seems to apply the pressure too far up causing a twisting action.

 

[PlumbBobBob]

i've got both box and cranked flat spanner and must say i get most use out of the box one really.

 

[Billy Bob Bob]

its stuck love,sorry but you need a combi

 

[tamz]

Hammer and screwdriver will move most stubborn ones. Cut the lagging back and heat if it still won't move. Shock is the thing you want to do, not brute force. A set of 24" stilsons would most likely mean a new cylinder.
Only drain a gallon or so from the cylinder. Just enough to get below the level.

WD40 won't do any good. The threads are sealed with tape or probably boss white if it is not moving so it will penetrate nothing.