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Gaz_D

Hi everyone, I am having a bit of an issue with my Baxi 105e boiler and I am just after some information.
Now before anyone criticises, I don't intend on fixing this problem myself as I am not GSR. I will be getting a plumber in to sort it but I am interested to see if his verdict will be similar to others, before I starting tossing money at him.

So here's the problem, about a month ago my boiler suddenly stopped, I thought the house was a bit cold before I went to bed but thought nothing of it until the next morning when I realised it was bloody freezing. Checked on the boiler and all the pressure had gone, but there were no fault lights flashing. So I re-pressurised it, switched it on and it worked no problem for a few days. Then it started cutting off at odd times (during both CH and DHW) with the flame failure fault displayed, switching it off and then back on would work and it would start back up first time. This continued for a few days and then it began taking a few resets to start, so I calls the plumber out and this is what we observed on the times when it wouldn't start:

The fan would start > a spark is produced > a small flame is ignited > fan stops > flame dies > FLAME FAULT ERROR light flashes

The plumber believed it was one of two things, the Air Pressure Switch or the PCB. As the APS was the cheaper option and he had one to hand, he went ahead and replaced it, the one he replaced it with was plastic whilst the one removed was metal (if that makes any difference). The boiler started up first time and several more times after, champion!

It has worked spot on for two weeks now, until last night I tried to have a shower and the water was freezing. Checked the boiler and there was no fault showing but the same failed start up sequence was occuring:

The fan starts > a spark is produced > a small flame is ignited > fan stops > flame dies - but no fault displayed (just looks like it's in standby)

I tried resetting it but it is yet to start and the above sequence continues.

Now when I call the plumber back out, I am sure he is going to suggest replacing the PCB, but I don't really like the idea of replacing the most expensive part when replacing the APS cured the fault for two weeks. Is it possible that something is causing the APS to develop a fault or do others agree that this sounds like the PCB?

Any info is greatly appretiated and as I say, I will not be carrying out any work myself. This is purely for peace of mind before I start throwing money around.

Thanks

Gary
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If its the boiler I think it is, ask the plumber to check the condensate trap is operating correctly.
Other than that GSR rules apply for your and other thread viewers safety. 🙂
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks Stoker I will mention that to him, are there any other areas I could query without causing him insult?
 

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