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H

hessyboy

Been to look at a job and as soon as i ran the hot water the boiler was banging quite loud. Customer said ive had some one in before and he cleaned out the plate H E and it worked ok for a few months. The boiler had been fitted about 4 years ago on the cheap joined on to an old system and not been flushed out properly.

He also said the radiators where getting hot as he run the hot tap. I was thinking about flushing the system out and changing plate and diverter valve and putting a TF1 filter on it. Would anybody go a different route to that? The guy is a joiner and had done jobs for me in the past so dont really want to let him down. THANKS
 
Ye, diverter valve needs replacing. If you look at the back of the manifolds and round the back of the plate, there will either be a small copper pipe connecting both manifolds or there won't. If you've NOT got a small copper pipe (about 10mm thick) joining the 2, you have the newer model with the built in bypass, rather than this copper pipe being the bypass. This is good because it means you can just buy the cartridge to replace the old one rather than the whole manifold.

I would clean out the plate again, unless you chat with the customer about replacing that too. But I would make them fully aware that you will do the job, but unless they pay to have the system flushed with some inhibitor added you won't guarantee it. It'd be worth cleaning the filter in the return iso valve too.
 
Ye, diverter valve needs replacing. If you look at the back of the manifolds and round the back of the plate, there will either be a small copper pipe connecting both manifolds or there won't. If you've NOT got a small copper pipe (about 10mm thick) joining the 2, you have the newer model with the built in bypass, rather than this copper pipe being the bypass. This is good because it means you can just buy the cartridge to replace the old one rather than the whole manifold.

I would clean out the plate again, unless you chat with the customer about replacing that too. But I would make them fully aware that you will do the job, but unless they pay to have the system flushed with some inhibitor added you won't guarantee it. It'd be worth cleaning the filter in the return iso valve too.
i would also clean out the plate heat BUT.. i would remove the dv,remove the bottom bush and spring and clean them this is probably all thats needed,i would also not fit a tf1 tried them,think there crap TBH ,either a centramag trappex or magna clean
 
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it has the bypass pipe attached to the diverter valve ? does this mean you can just by the cartridge?? never seen one before THANKS
 
THANKS GAS MAN. Dont do much service and repair so thought id come on here for some advice.. so you would take the dv manifold out and clean it then see if it works before fitting a new 1 ?
 
I've done it before and it hasn't worked. But you could try it if you've got the time.

If it's got the bypass pipe then I think the whole thing might have to be changed. But I generally don't have the time to take them out, clean, test, etc, I usually order the whole part and change it.
 
THANKS GAS MAN. Dont do much service and repair so thought id come on here for some advice.. so you would take the dv manifold out and clean it then see if it works before fitting a new 1 ?
yes bottom bush and spring ,not top bush
 
It's hour job topps to strip clean and rebuild. I would clean it first or fit the repair kit, spring may be stuck. Is actuator working? Take it off ( small flat clip) switch between DHW and CH , pin should move in and out.
 

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