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Bungs and automatic vents

View the thread, titled "Bungs and automatic vents" which is posted in UK Plumbers Forums on UK Plumbers Forums.

WaterTight

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Did I hear someone on here say that if bunging the vent and feed of a tank you should also make sure automatic air vents are closed? Is this true? I thought air would only go one way with them.

If it's true how do you close them? And also, presuming you might not find all of them - do they constitute much of a risk?

Or did I mis-read and they were talking about something else you must do when bunging? And if so, what would that be?

Thanks
 
Did I hear someone on here say that if bunging the vent and feed of a tank you should also make sure automatic air vents are closed? Is this true? I thought air would only go one way with them.

If it's true how do you close them? And also, presuming you might not find all of them - do they constitute much of a risk?

Or did I mis-read and they were talking about something else you must do when bunging? And if so, what would that be?

Thanks

Once the pressure in the system drops the float in the vent can drop so your system won't be bunged, and will allow air in.
 
Well yeah. I remember working in a loft with my old boss and he installed one in the far corner, in what would normall be pitch black, behind a tuft of loft insulation, because that was the highest point that part of the installation..
 
Ok. Two questions still remain. How do you turn them off / shut them off? And when using bungs do you hunt through every inch of pipework in loft etc to find them all or take a punt?
 
they have a cap on them, most look like the black valve cap on a bycle tyre, just screw it down,
i think on open vented systems they dont need them as air vents through the vent pipe, may be one on top of the boiler. with cealed sytems with pipe work in loft u will probably just have to trace the pipework untill u find them
 
When you hve bunged the system and think you have closed all the AAVs you still need to release the system pressure before you go cutting into any pipe. You release system pressure by attaching a hose to drain valve and letting water out, if the system is successfully bunged the flow from the drain valve will gradually slow down and stop after about a minute, if not, air is getting in somehow and the system is draining.

Please feel free to ask any questions about bunging the system as it is something i do all the time

Sorry about the typos, just finished my first bottle of wine for the evening
 
As stoke mentioned your average well designed/installed open system should not have or need AAV's, but a few problem systems may have had them fitted to cope with the odd airlock. Just have a quick butchers round the pipework then fire away with your bungs. Sometimes the black caps have been completely removed. If I change an AAV I keep some of the old caps for times like this. Or you could just stick a bit of bluetack over the relief hole.
 
morning gents. need to bung my F&E TANK. what type of bung do i buy . someone did say an expanding bung [comes with a wing nut?] is safes tto use. soemone else said a parsnip!!
 
Gassmanxxr1,
Do you bung a system when you work alone? I've seen some posts that recommend having a bucket buddy on hand.
The tip about releasing the system pressure is a good one, too; makes a lot of sense, after all cutting into a pipe is a BIG commitment (-:
I've not tried it yet, I understand the theory well enough but it's that first time nerves that get me. It's like an aircraft flying, you can see it, but really it's just magic that keeps it up!
TerryH
 
Yep i work alone mate. The best thing to do first off is crack open a compression joint if poss, if you get a gusher then just tighten it up.

After you've tried doing it a few times and have confidence you will be glad about all the time saved and airlocks missed
 
Yep i work alone mate. The best thing to do first off is crack open a compression joint if poss, if you get a gusher then just tighten it up.

After you've tried doing it a few times and have confidence you will be glad about all the time saved and airlocks missed

this is what I do, but remember on certain pipes you might have a little bit of water. if it is on a seperate drop with no drain valve for instance
 
I worry about bunging tanks, the reason for this is.

1. they might pop out if there is reverse pressure or if not in properly
2. F & E tanks are dirty and last thing i want to do is get my self covered in muck before i have even started work.
3. cold water tanks are clean and don't want to contaminate it with my dirty hands
 
Thanks for all the useful tips, gents.
On Saturday I have a trv to fit, so will try bunging the system (vented) first. I've copied out all your advice..... so heart beating rapidly and attempting to look confident, I'll give it a try.
I'm reluctant to drain down because the boiler is an old Potterton Flamingo, which will probably never work again once disturbed. ): and as you all say, it's an awful lot of work for one trv.
Say a little prayer for me!!!!
TerryH
 
Hi TERRY - i have a big thank you to say to all the pros / experienced guys on here. I recently bunged my open vented system yo chang etwo rad valves . the same job that you are doing on saturday. Yes, I was nervouse also!! this is how I bunged. But I am in no position to advise!! but this is what I did and it worked, appropriately shaped potato 9a slim potato not a fat one in the expansion pipe. I then used masking tape a few wraps round to get a good seal. In the feed pipe I put the top of a silicon sealeant tube!! The lid you screw off before you use the sealant.. Now this lid was kind of "splined" on the outside, so i got a wood chisel and chiselled off the "splines" If you get a lid without the splines obviously you wont need to do this! after chiselling off the splines, I found that it fiteed into fee hole perfectly! The bung held while change the rad valves. I even left the bung in for a week to show my mate what I did. The bung did not hold absolutely water tight, but all it was was a very slow drip .I easily fitted my rad valves, even with this very slow drip. But best thing to use , to bung both expansion and feed pipe is probably a cork or rubber bungs - if you can find any round the house!! I couldn't. it you happy to spend money, its called a "drain easy kit" aat the plumbers merchants - someting like £15 at plumbase!! a lot of money for two rubber bungs!! all the best mate. Nigel - firs timer - and thanks again to the pofessional for taking their time to input into these forums.
 

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