T
that bloke.
what do you think?
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Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws
what do you think?
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One method of making a jumper "captive" was to, what was termed "bump" it, the end of the screw spindle was not turned flat across the end, but a slightly tapered "upstand" was left at the orifice where the jumper spindle fitted, with a corresponding groove in the jumper spindle, and when the jumper ( the jumper spindle was a tight fit, at the upstand ) was inserted into the screw spindle, and the jumper plate "bumped" the "upstand" would deform into the groove in the jumper spindle, making it "captive"
This was how the valves that John Bolding & sons made, they also made the covers on the valves without threads so that the covers would not get "limed up" and be easy to remove for washer changing
I spent about a year with Bolding's before becoming an apprentice
A bit of history, the head office and show room was in George street close to Bond street, they had two branches one in Euston road almost opposite the tube station, another behind Selfridge's, the brass foundry was just off Kings Cross, they were also tied in with Dent & Hellier (hospital equipment) offices in Soho, and Thomas Crapper, Kings road Chelsea
god id forgotten about boldings the shop on euston rd actually run right through to warren st behindOne method of making a jumper "captive" was to, what was termed "bump" it, the end of the screw spindle was not turned flat across the end, but a slightly tapered "upstand" was left at the orifice where the jumper spindle fitted, with a corresponding groove in the jumper spindle, and when the jumper ( the jumper spindle was a tight fit, at the upstand ) was inserted into the screw spindle, and the jumper plate "bumped" the "upstand" would deform into the groove in the jumper spindle, making it "captive"
This was how the valves that John Bolding & sons made, they also made the covers on the valves without threads so that the covers would not get "limed up" and be easy to remove for washer changing
I spent about a year with Bolding's before becoming an apprentice
A bit of history, the head office and show room was in George street close to Bond street, they had two branches one in Euston road almost opposite the tube station, another behind Selfridge's, the brass foundry was just off Kings Cross, they were also tied in with Dent & Hellier (hospital equipment) offices in Soho, and Thomas Crapper, Kings road Chelsea
god id forgotten about boldings the shop on euston rd actually run right through to warren st behind
the ware house man at george st would chip the side of the bath that was going against the wall for half a quid and youd get the bath half price
we used boldings a lot during my apprenteship as the company i worked for was in jermyn st
about ten plumbers and only the foreman had a van(morris minor when i started and escort when i finished )the rest of us walked or used buses and tubes i was once stopped from taking a gas bottle on the tube when i went back they put the bottle in a sack and sent me back
i was once sitting on a bus with a six foot of 22mm chrome in my hand and another passenger grabbed it thinking it was the hand rail and wound up in a heap on the floor
we did everything that the other trades didnt roofing. cleaning cookerhoods and duct work in resturants ,shoveling pigeon crap of roofs crittal windows, glazing and even some plumbing
like most builders we had an influx of painter every spring im sure most of then were prison trained the rest were just out of colney hatch
in those days the building trade was fun loads of practical jokes sneaking of swimming in the serpentine sunbathing in the parks or on the roofs where we were supposed to be working whistling the girls from the scaffold happy days
I would try to solder it.
Use tin-lead solder wire.
You might need to use a good liquid flux depending on just what type of brass it is.
Buff the surfaces with scotchbrite or wire wool to remove all oxide and muck.
See if you can tin the surface of the jumper stem.
Tin the bore of the spindle.
Flux the surfaces and assemble.
Heat the assembly and the solder should flow between the two surfaces and give you a good joint.
Good Luck.
Johnsco
they used to come like that cold water loose jumper.hot water fixed jumper we even had different washers for hot and cold red and black a little tap on the jumper stem to spread it a little and then tap ,it in to the spindle will keep it in placeboldings stuff was lovely , they bought crapper out before going into liquidation didnt they? crappers name was then snapped up and the new crapper started to make expensive repro stuff.
if i look into the hole in the spindle i can see what looks like solder or a whitish substance. i think it was captive because the other tap has the jumper firmly fixed to the spindle.
i cannot see a pin anywhere in the spindle threads.
would the tap still function properly if i leave it like this? would it be better on the cold rather than the hot as there might be more pressure on the cold.
they used to come like that cold water loose jumper.hot water fixed jumper we even had different washers for hot and cold red and black a little tap on the jumper stem to spread it a little and then tap ,it in to the spindle will keep it in place
Reply to the thread, titled "can this jumper and spindle be put back together?" which is posted in UK Plumbers Forums on Plumbers Forums.
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