View the thread, titled "Capping off lead" which is posted in UK Plumbers Forums on UK Plumbers Forums.

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marsaday

I have a lead pipe in the basement feeding my house and the neighbours.

It also has two branches which feed taps. I dont need these any more and wondered what is the way to go about cutting them off and sticking on a lead lock.

1) Do i have to measure the pipe before i buy a lead lock ? Or is it a std fitment.

2) any tips i need to watch for.
 
I have a lead pipe in the basement feeding my house and the neighbours.

It also has two branches which feed taps. I dont need these any more and wondered what is the way to go about cutting them off and sticking on a lead lock.

1) Do i have to measure the pipe before i buy a lead lock ? Or is it a std fitment.

2) any tips i need to watch for.

Turn off the water, cut the lead back to approx 1ft long, bash it flat for about 6" then bend it back on itself and batter it flat! Sounds rough but it works and will save you a tenner on a leadlock
 
not ideal though is it.. over time it will start leaking again, i know, ive seen it..
 
Sometimes if you are lucky it is marked on the side of the pipe you may need to clean it up with a little wire wool to see it .It will say 1/2" x7lb or something similar [different sizes]then get your lead loc to suit before cutting pipe good luck🙂regards turnpin
 
a 6lb lock will fit 6lb pipe soo much nicer than the standard 7lb that they have in stck and will try to sell you, you can always shave down the pipe aswell to make it fit.
 
I clean up the end of the pipe inside and out, flux it up nip it together with a couple of hammers and seal it with stick solder and wipe it smooth.
 
Is stick solder a special solder then ? Can it be a lead free version ? This sounds a better option i reckon.
 
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Turn off the water, cut the lead back to approx 1ft long, bash it flat for about 6" then bend it back on itself and batter it flat! Sounds rough but it works and will save you a tenner on a leadlock

Now there's a tried and tested method! lol ... Although in these day's of political correctness and the fear of litigation prohibit, I'd imagine! However I've known of it get me out of a tricky situation ... not just with water!!! 😉 Obviously 30 years on I do not advocate this form of seal as it may have worked in the past but they just don't make hammers like they use too! 😎
 
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here we go! cut/saw lead at 45 degrees, make a good tight fitting lead 'slug' bang it into hole left in pipe, clean end of pipe and 'slug' up with rasp or blunt penkife, apply tallow, if none around use flux, get a bar of grade 'D' solder, heat lead and solder together so that molten solder attaches itself to lead before lead becomes molten and dissappears and then make artistic bump on end of lead with wiping cloth, easy.
 
Tbh your lead pipe is more of a risk to health than lead solder! Some water authoritys will replace your lead pipe at much reduced cost with mdpe; worth a call to find out.
 
I think they charge a fortune.

Anyone know if this lead in my link is ok for lead soldering
 
proper plumbers metal as it was called stays molten longer to give you time to wipe it but you can use the normal wire
the trick is the way you tap the lead to a stop end hard to explain you actually dress the lead inwards till the bore closes to nothing i can dress the end of a lead pipe to hold water without any solder on it the solder just stops it opening up again
 
I think they charge a fortune.

Anyone know if this lead in my link is ok for lead soldering

Don't know where you link goes but grade D plumbers solder is 60 % lead 40% tin. Buy it in sticks from most plumbers merchants. If you can't find any just use ordinary leaded. (70-30)
 
Its lead pipe, so it seems daft not to be able to use lead solder!

One thing to bear in mind is not to leave an air pocket, causes nasty water hammer.

I can still remember how to use plumbers solder to wipe an angled stop end, haven't had to do one for a long time though!
 
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I agree with mickie. Leaving enough lead to connect a fitting, cut a bit of the lead off bring it to your plumbing suppliers and get the relevant lead lock (5lb or 7lb) job done! Regulations recommend wherever you come across lead you should replace it. Once its starts to dose/leaks you will be repairing bursts for ever.
 
Just hammer a lead to copper Philmac on the end with a stop end on a bit of copper.

The young guys these days don't get taught the "joys" of solder wiping a joint like us oldies. Working with cast iron is a no, no too to a couple of young sprogs I know! Ban Speedfit and bring back Roman Aquaducts.
 
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