Charges for repair jobs

[Scott_D]

I’m trying to do more boiler repairs and general call-outs.
Can I ask how you guys charge for this type of work?
Charge to diagnose and charge to return with a part if they accept?
Free diagnostic and higher charge to return?
Set hourly rate and send a bill at the end?

Example I am going to look at a Vaillant on Monday that probably needs a diverter.
If I charge 2x £70 and £125 for the diverter (no markup) I am almost at the cost of a fixed price repair.

 

[oz-plumber]

You're not going to do yourself any favours by not charging for diagnosing the problem(s).
Then your in hope the people will get you back to fix the boiler at your requested quote / estimate price.

I always go back to the employee scenario.
If you employed someone and had them driving around all day diagnosing problems, you would have to pay them.
You wouldn't survive long with the hope that the customers would use you for the repairs.

If you have to pay an employee for doing the job - you should pay yourself also.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

It’s one of them I try and keep stock of most common items (but I’m lucky I’ve got a lock up as it takes a bit of storage)

You need to fix it in one visit really as it’s the only time you really make any money unless it’s beyond fixing etc

Use the plastic diverter around £60 inc vat or £20 for the rebuild kit

 

[Scott_D]

It’s one of them I try and keep stock of most common items (but I’m lucky I’ve got a lock up as it takes a bit of storage)

You need to fix it in one visit really as it’s the only time you really make any money unless it’s beyond fixing etc

Use the plastic diverter around £60 inc vat or £20 for the rebuild kit

Can you use the plastic if it has a brass diverter?

A first visit fix would be ideal but I would need thousands of pounds of stock that could sit for months.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Yes I think so I the original ones were brass out of the factory but these days it’s mostly plastic as it’s cheaper but they still make the brass on the internals are the same

 

[EvilDrPorkChop]

For me it's a minimum £100+VAT for a repair, plus parts. And that depends on the repair. My advantage is we have DHS on our doorstep, so I can do nearly all repairs same day/job as they keep nearly everything in and I can collect. As Shaun says I try and keep common parts in the van too. Diesel is too expensive to just be running about these days.

In terms of little jobs/repairs we're charging £45+VAT per hour now.

Tbh I find myself doing less repairs as a lot of our boilers are under warranty. I do a lot of servicing instead these days, which is great for me.

Also I'd stick the to brass diverter.

 

[Deleted member 120897]

One tip with if it’s the EcoTEC boiler, sometimes the pipe from diverter to return under the boiler doesn’t align properly, just undo the retaining nut underneath and should be a doddle then.

I work in social housing (Direct labour) and we keep a van stock so vast majority is fixed 1st visit (their buzz words are “right first time”). Agree it would be expensive, but if you know your local customer stock, or get to know the stock, keeping a few bits in might be more beneficial to enable 1st time repair, that way you can say it’s £x to repair now, or £x for diagnosis/quote.

If you don‘t have the part, check with your local merchants and go from there, then you could say £x diagnosis, part available on x-day, and return to supply & fit is £x amount.

Hope this helps

 

[Last Plumber]

We charge our usual minimum rate plus whatever it takes per hour thereafter. If there are 2 visits it's the same again, plus materials plus VAT. Always add mark up to materials and never make less than 25% gross on things.

 

[Scott_D]

I have been to look at it and I am a bit stumped.
Hot water sits at 35-40
The heat is going down the flow when hot tap is opened suggesting diverter but if I shut the heating isolation valves it still won’t go above 40 degrees and just modulated down.
Sensors all seem to give the correct reading in the menu.
It was showing d.40 when I arrived but after a factory reset and gas family check no longer showing this status.
It seems to think 40 is the correct temp

 

[ShaunCorbs]

The inline filter clean ?
Lpm correct out of tap ?

 

[Deleted member 120897]

Did you check the hot water dial on the front, they’re prone to snapping, if it’s snapped, it’ll only go as high as the set dial (potentiometer). Heating up the flow pipe would suggest DV. Only other time I’ve had something similar was the switch live to heating was going to L on PCB and what should have been the L was going to room stat, so customer would only get hot water when heating is on.

Also what year EcoTEC (assuming).

 

[Scott_D]

10lpm at the kitchen tap
I didn’t check the online canoe filter.

It’s. 2014 so buttons rather than a dial. Hot water set to 65 but seems to modulate down when it hits 40.
Hot flow and plate sensor showing correct temps in the D settings.

There is no system filter and it’s not a clean system so probably diverter, canoe, plate but just confused me that it modulates down at 40.

Funniest part is they haven’t had the wireless stat for 5 years living in the house, they leave the receiver on manual and turn down TRVs so the boiler runs 24/7

 

[Deleted member 120897]

Have a look at D70, this will tell you what the diverter is set to, had a few of these on heating only.

 

[Scott_D]

It was 100% hot water but wasn’t sure if it would know if there was a slight blockage and show 99%

 

[EvilDrPorkChop]

Internal Bypass isn't playing up is it. Try screwing it down fully. Probably knackered it in from them shutting all the TRVS and leaving it on manual.

 

[Last Plumber]

I have been to look at it and I am a bit stumped.
Hot water sits at 35-40
The heat is going down the flow when hot tap is opened suggesting diverter but if I shut the heating isolation valves it still won’t go above 40 degrees and just modulated down.
Sensors all seem to give the correct reading in the menu.
It was showing d.40 when I arrived but after a factory reset and gas family check no longer showing this status.
It seems to think 40 is the correct temp

Is this 35-40 what the read out on the boiler says or what the water temp at the tap is (sorry if you've mentioned it and I missed it by skim reading).

 

[Scott_D]

Temp of hot water leaving the boiler

 

[Last Plumber]

Temp of hot water leaving the boiler

If it's that low leaving the boiler it sounds like a thermistor or partially blocked PHE or passing diverter as you said.
What's the rise across the PHE (cold in & hot out) and what are the flow and return temperatures from it on primary side?
If the PHE has a blockage on the primary, they can cause the diverter to pass slightly.