Choice between Hot water temp and Radiator temp - dilemma

[jirams]

System is Baxi 552 BBU with gravity indirect HW cylinder + 9 rads and Grundfos 15/50 on lowest of III settings. Room thermostat in hall calling pump. It is a very old system (28) but then I am an old dude (70) so it matches me LOL.

Our washing machine is cold feed and our shower is leccy - we are 2 old dudes - so our Hot water demand is very low even when I wash my feet!

The result is that our hot water is VERY hot - too hot by far to hold hand in stream. The boiler thermostat is set to 1.5 and this gives reasonable room heating but every time the boiler is called we get gurgling noises for a few seconds from the deep bowels (of the attic ?? - I think but am not convinced) - suspect the noise is from hot water storage system although nothing sounds directly from storage cylinder. The F+E tank is working OK - correct level and float valve is delivering OK - no signs of feedback into this tank. The HW cylinder in this house ejects through swan neck onto outside roof rather than into CW storage tank (Scottish regs) - there is no evidence on HW being ejected.

Is there any way I can avoid so much heat going into Hot water system and still have good heating from rads. I don't want to have to fit any valves to system.

Am I stuck with this?

Have had great help from this forum in past - cheers to all ;0)

 

[aggis]

New boiler stat, req'd

 

[Centralheatking]

If you look at the hot water cylinder in your airing cupboard you might see a strap on thermostat this can be set to stop the hot water getting too hot. Its marked and you could turn it anti-clockwise to reduce the hot water temp.

If you dont have one of these then you could get a local heatingeng. to put one on and connect it up.

centralheatking

 

[jirams]

Forgot to say that I fitted a new boiler stat today - still same. The stat switches the boiler in and out OK. If it switches gas valve OK then what could be wrong with stat?

 

[jirams]

If you look at the hot water cylinder in your airing cupboard you might see a strap on thermostat this can be set to stop the hot water getting too hot. Its marked and you could turn it anti-clockwise to reduce the hot water temp.

If you dont have one of these then you could get a local heatingeng. to put one on and connect it up.

centralheatking

Are you referring to electrical immersion heater - I am talking about hot water produced by boiler - electrical is not in use.

 

[jirams]

If you look at the hot water cylinder in your airing cupboard you might see a strap on thermostat this can be set to stop the hot water getting too hot. Its marked and you could turn it anti-clockwise to reduce the hot water temp.

If you dont have one of these then you could get a local heatingeng. to put one on and connect it up.

centralheatking

Having read this response again I can see that an electrical immersion is not the topic - sorry. There is no strap on stat - if I was to fit one, how could it be wired into system to control HW temp? As I said in OP, I am hoping to find a solution which avoids additional valves.

 

[Centralheatking]

A cylinder stat operates the valve which chooses between hot water only and hot water and heating in a similar way the room stat operates to limit the heating system over heating

centralheatking

 

[jirams]

A cylinder stat operates the valve which chooses between hot water only and hot water and heating in a similar way the room stat operates to limit the heating system over heating

centralheatking

OK - as you point out, a valve is involved - this system is so old it probably pre-dates diverter valves. The solution will probably be an up-to-date system with a life expectancy of 5 years - I expect at least to outlive such a solution LOL.

Your response is much appreciated ;0)