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Feb 8, 2019
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General Plumber
Hi All,

Looking for some advice. The tank in the attic has been trickling out of the overflow for a few weeks now.

I have an open vented system with a hot water pump (Stuart Turner monsoon twin 3) fitted.

Have already changed the valve and float in the attic. Set it very low but water is above the float. Tested it fine know it shuts off the feed that way.

Also changed the thermostat on hot water cylinder, so tank isn’t getting too hot and venting over.

I do have a shower fitted with mains cold and tank fed hot. (Plumber at the time said it would be fine because hot water is pumped) as well as 3 other mixers in the house with same hot/cold set up.

Looking online could it be the hot water is being overpowered by the cold, with mains then backfilling down the hot water pipe and filling the attic? I can see this can be resolved with a non return valve? And instead of fitting 4 non return valves can I fit one 22mm NRV on the flow from the pump? (Not the feed as this stops any ability to vent)

Thanks and sorry for the long winded post.
 
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Hi All,

Looking for some advice. The tank in the attic has been trickling out of the overflow for a few weeks now.

I have an open vented system with a hot water pump (Stuart Turner monsoon twin 3) fitted.

Have already changed the valve and float in the attic. Set it very low but water is above the float. Tested it fine know it shuts off the feed that way.

Also changed the thermostat on hot water cylinder, so tank isn’t getting too hot and venting over.

I do have a shower fitted with mains cold and tank fed hot. (Plumber at the time said it would be fine because hot water is pumped) as well as 3 other mixers in the house with same hot/cold set up.

Looking online could it be the hot water is being overpowered by the cold, with mains then backfilling down the hot water pipe and filling the attic? I can see this can be resolved with a non return valve? And instead of fitting 4 non return valves can I fit one 22mm NRV on the flow from the pump? (Not the feed as this stops any ability to vent)

Thanks and sorry for the long winded post.

It can be yes, a customer had a tap fitted and another plumber had changed the float valve twice. Turned out it was backfilling the cwsc (cold tank) and overflowing. I advised he fit check valves or change the tap.
 
It can be yes, a customer had a tap fitted and another plumber had changed the float valve twice. Turned out it was backfilling the cwsc (cold tank) and overflowing. I advised he fit check valves or change the tap.

If you want to check this then try and put your hand in the tank and feel where the cold feeds the cylinder
 
Ok thanks for the responses. Will try the feed later, if it is this, will one check valve suffice (on the outlet on the pump) or will I need one installed at each mixer?
 
That’s what I just said?? If the f&e is higher than the cwsc then if the coil is split then the water levels in the two tanks will try and level out
 
So. Sat in the attic whilst the mixer taps where tested. Felt the feed at the bottom of the cw tank and it was sucking the water out quite powerfully, nothing being pressed back up?

The valve has now settled and the water is the correct level.

But in a day or so it will be overflowing again. I’m completely baffled. Picture of the F&E tank just in case I’m missing something obvious.

EA084DBB-C5D5-4C3D-BA80-228951815680.jpeg
 
Think it’s the coil. Can see water going onto the CWSC when the hot water is turned on to heat up. (Nothing to do with mixer) tried to show a video but it won’t upload. Is that what would happen? The feed pipe down to the bottom of the tank is also getting warm.
 
Think it’s the coil. Can see water going onto the CWSC when the hot water is turned on to heat up. (Nothing to do with mixer) tried to show a video but it won’t upload. Is that what would happen? The feed pipe down to the bottom of the tank is also getting warm.
Potentially but keep in mind that that pipe will also deal with expansion so it is likely to be warm
 
If you sit up there long enough the smaller f&e tank should start to fill if the water level is indeed higher the other alternative is to shut off the pipes to the pump so there’s no way that water can be coming from anywhere else
 
I’ve turned the hot water pump off. It’s still filling in the bigger tank, which I guess would then fill the smaller tank. But why/how is water going up that pipe?
 
The small tank will fill your central heating the big tank fills your cylinder. Assuming it’s piped correctly the only place these to waters come close is in the coil in the cylinder, central heating water inside, domestic hot water outside. There could be a small pinhole in your coil meaning that when it heats and expands water from the smaller tank is able to pass into the domestic hot water. This then effectively makes it all one circuit no longer separate so the two tanks in the loft will try and achieve the same water level. This will only be the case though if the water level in the smaller tank is higher than that in the larger tank otherwise the same would happen only in reverse
 
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The small tank will fill your central heating the big tank fills your cylinder. Assuming it’s piped correctly the only place these to waters come close is in the coil in the cylinder, central heating water inside, domestic hot water outside. There could be a small pinhole in your coil meaning that when it heats and expands water from the smaller tank is able to pass into the domestic hot water. This then effectively makes it all one circuit no longer separate so the two tanks in the loft will try and achieve the same water level. This will only be the case though if the water level in the smaller tank is higher than that in the larger tank otherwise the same would happen only in reverse
Ah sorry I thought it was normal but maybe my system is different. I have 3 tanks. The two I’ve shown are hot water. There’s a smaller tank again that feeds the CH.
 
I’ll go back up tomorrow to check but I think that tank is a lot lower down. Thanks for all your responses and help. However I assume the water coming back up into the CW tank is the issue as it’s being pushed back up the feed. Will take some
More pictures tomorrow. Thanks again.
 
Which could be the case if the f&e water level is higher than the other two tanks. If the coil has split and the f&e is higher then the water will of course come back up the feed pipe. I mean this in the nicest way mate but I think you might need a pro in. If you find the problem I’m not sure what you intend to do
 
Which could be the case if the f&e water level is higher than the other two tanks. If the coil has split and the f&e is higher then the water will of course come back up the feed pipe. I mean this in the nicest way mate but I think you might need a pro in. If you find the problem I’m not sure what you intend to do
Tbh I’ve had plumbers in for the last 4 weeks, changed the two way valves, cylinder stat, ball valve etc and now stating it was my hot water pump.

So I’ve had enough of being fobbed off and wanted a decision on what was wrong so I could then understand and agree/disagree with the next plumber who comes in. If it’s the cylinder then I’ll get someone in to change it, just wanted to diagnose it correctly. As all they seem to be doing is winging it.

I appreciate your comments on getting a pro in, no offence taken I’m an accountant not a plumber.
 
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Thank you we are happy to help but likewise we don’t want to see someone flood their house. Do you understand the science of what I was trying to explain
 
Thank you we are happy to help but likewise we don’t want to see someone flood their house. Do you understand the science of what I was trying to explain
Yeah I get it. If the F&E is higher than those two then it will try to level itself out. But the F&E tank is only a small 10 gallon tank so I don’t think it’s higher than that big tank. However I will check.
 
The water level is the key factor not the actual size of the tank
This is what a meant by small. It isn’t possible for the CH tank level to be higher than the other two. Woke up this morning and the tanks are full again. And the CWSC is warm with the feed pipe very hot to touch.

98C7F869-41D3-4BE2-B41B-35B9D33694A6.jpeg


716C3095-985F-4F8C-986B-65068EA7FE72.jpeg
 
Ok then it’s impossible to tell from the angle of your pics the levels. That will be down to you. As long as the water in the f&e is lower than that in the larger tanks then you can rule out split coil. Only logical other fault then would be one of your mixers passing
 
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Ok then it’s impossible to tell from the angle of your pics the levels. That will be down to you. As long as the water in the f&e is lower than that in the larger tanks then you can rule out split coil. Only logical other fault then would be one of your mixers passing
Also if the coil was split would the water in the hot water tank be dirty? As it was relatively clean.

Can the mixers pass if they are off? As this has happened overnight so nothing on.

Thanks again.
 
If you have isolators on mixer taps you will need to turn them off systematically to work out which one. My bet would be a shower
Yeah will go around turning off the isolators on each tap and checking to see if the flow has stopped. Hopefully find it that way.
 
I noticed on the hot water pipes on the pump where freezing cold. Like a mains water pipe. Not sure if this is a stupid point to make, but I turned off the mains water and the water going into the tank has now stopped. If the coil was split wouldn’t it drain down the F&E?
 
Turned mains water back and and immediately started going back up into the tank. I can’t access shower mixer to isolate but assumed isolating the entire feed off the hot water pump would do it.
 
Sorry I’m getting mixed messages with this does the pump do hot and cold water for the whole house or just for one shower. If all the house is pumped then the fault can only be with your kitchen mixer
 
Sorry I’m getting mixed messages with this does the pump do hot and cold water for the whole house or just for one shower
Pump does whole house, hence I thought if I used the isolation valves on the pump it would stop any backfilling mains. But either the isolation valves aren’t turning off fully or im barking up the wrong tree. However I can feel the pipes on the pump they are cold as if mains water is flowing through.
 
Right let’s backtrack as we keep going round in circles here. Any outlet you have that is hot pumped and cold mains could be your culprit and from what you said sounds the only logical explanation
 
Yep agreed. I’m just going to put a NRV on the outlet from the pump for the sake of £5 and my brain exploding. Will update after fitted.
 
Ok so NRV fitted. Isn’t coming back into the tank at the moment but maybe because I turned off. Will check it over the course of the day to see if it’s come back. Thanks again for your help will keep you posted.

34802FEB-9309-42B9-B4E7-AE1428892E5D.jpeg
 
The small tank will fill your central heating the big tank fills your cylinder. Assuming it’s piped correctly the only place these to waters come close is in the coil in the cylinder, central heating water inside, domestic hot water outside. There could be a small pinhole in your coil meaning that when it heats and expands water from the smaller tank is able to pass into the domestic hot water. This then effectively makes it all one circuit no longer separate so the two tanks in the loft will try and achieve the same water level. This will only be the case though if the water level in the smaller tank is higher than that in the larger tank otherwise the same would happen only in reverse
Have traditional vented indirect system, in my case F&E tank base same level as large tank, so top level below, F&E tank overflows/steady trickle, maybe one bucket every 3 hours, also somewhat brownish water (water from taps crystal clear), guess it is coil, or could system be too hot (at one stage hot water was VERY hot), any suggestion?
 

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