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I agree with the above. They are fairly straight forward. But if you are not sure then get a heating engineer in. If you give it a minute one of the sparky's will be along and let you know that a sparky can also change the head for you. 😀😛😛
 
Thanks very much chaps, I learnt a lot today, including that I keep way too much in my airing cupboard 😉
 
Not just you Stephanie. I think I have only ever been to about 4 houses where the airing cupboards have been completely empty with just the cylinder in them.🙂
 
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Get a plumber and they can test both zone valves and determine which one is keeping the boiler on. Dont try removing the actuator head as you can get an electric shock as there is a live feed to them. Get a qualified plumber to leave it safe and working properly.
 
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Others have covered the valve(s), but I will draw your attention to the system pressure gauge you show on the last picture, which at 0.2 bar seems much too low to me, I'd expect it to be around 1 bar when the system is cold. Ask your plumber, who will need to be on the Gas Safe Register, to investigate the root cause of this while they are on site.

In my opinion, you should not operate the boiler until this is sorted.
 
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Others have covered the valve(s), but I will draw your attention to the system pressure gauge you show on the last picture, which at 0.2 bar seems much too low to me, I'd expect it to be around 1 bar when the system is cold. Ask your plumber, who will need to be on the Gas Safe Register, to investigate the root cause of this while they are on site.

In my opinion, you should not operate the boiler until this is sorted.
Thanks Chuck. I regularly open the valve and let water into the tank to raise the pressure but guess that ordinarily that shouldn't be necessary. My husband has called a plumber and I'll post the results when he's been. Thank you.
 
The other valve which is on the heating looks like a danfoss valve, that is probably the more likely culprit.
The pressure gauge is for the heating system, and its on the low side. You have other issues that need addressing. I am pleased you have called a plumber 🙂
 
Honeywell
Hi Stephanie

Disconnect white wire in junction box, heating and water off on timer if you have +- 160V on white wire contact Honeywell. Your 3 port head will be knackered but you also require another part which Honeywell will give part number for.

Sorry just saw you have s-plan so replace Danfoss heating valve complete.
 
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