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B

Billy Bob Bob

i have just come in from faulting a ideal heap icos 15 he proven its the pcb or interface board no codes no lights totally dead,any way to test the interface board cant axe it to death custard cant afford a new boiler
 
I was shown a trick where you can attach the interface board directly onto the pcb. you have to remove that stupid purple wire that links the two together and and push the interface baord onto the board where the purple wire used to be. But if the PCB is dead then this test wont work. Was also told by a bloke who worked for ideal that the interface never actually breaks its the little piece on the interface PCB what the purple wire connects onto. If you get some electrical circuit board(i'm not sure what the proper name is but its that board used in schools that you solder onto) and cut it into a small piece the same size and replace it the interface will work. The ideal bloke told me that the little piece of baord was poorly made (much like the boiler really)
 
Good luck Gas Man , I had the misfortune to have a combi that was throwing out a load of faults ,i changed a few sensors etc and finally the pcb and it still threw up the odd fault but has been working for over a year now , stating the obvious is there an internal fuse to check or loose connection maybe
 
1. ensure power at the connector block under the main pcb (assume ok)
2. Check for power at the on/off switch (assume ok)
3 Attach user pcb directly to main pcb to rule out connecting ribbon fault
4. If still nothing, new PCB

5. Gallon of fuel and a match 🙂
 
Hi,
It's usually the main pcb, but once tried their tech dept, he said the interface board, now driving around with it !! hey-ho, life on the gas!
 
my moneys on the pcb
check for 240v on the brown and red to earth.. on on/off switch
 
it was the pcb blown by the detection electrode how bad is this? what a heap bit of supplementary info,fan can also cause this if you find between 110-130 ohms on the fan by going on the red and blue wires fans ok also if no mains trough the on/off switch also points to pcb and putting the tiny links in the pcb is not fun 123 on the 15 kw if code on the display board as per addendum
 
Thats good info that is mate

How many addendum do this boiler have ? I know I have not got enough fingers or toes to count
 
on the pcb it comes with a small instruction book it explains were to put the dip switches or links as ideal call them on various boilers on the back of the interface pcb is a code you match that up to the diagram
 
The last time I did one of these it was interface board, modified lead and main PCB. Lasted 3 days so spoke to Ideal technical who said it was the PCB but also said there is no guarantee that it won't keep blowing?!?! The PCB was listed as "revision/version 7" orsimilar, doesn't inspire you with confidence!!
 
they are crap boilers and I hate them , they are the type of boiler that would give you a nervous breakdown if you were that way inclinded, I have fixed a combi before with a load of errors changed pcb and other cheaper bit first ,then expensive pcb only for another error to show , i rang ideal and was told the pcb could be faulty ,fortunately the boiler has kept going ,i even left my fan heater there and dont want to tempt fate by going back
 

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