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Downstairs rads taking ages to heat

View the thread, titled "Downstairs rads taking ages to heat" which is posted in Air Sourced Heat Pumps Advice Forum on UK Plumbers Forums.

F

Frosty7

Hi there I’m brand new to this forum and really need some help.
my downstairs radiators can take an age to heat up. Sometimes they just don’t heat up at all. Other times they do heat up and all is good. Until I turn the heating down at night and the issues begins again the next morning. A heating engineer has suggested a power flush. Any help/advice would be really appreciated.
 
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Frosty7 said:
Hi thanks for the reply.
move got the water tank type. Not a combi boiler. Sorry that’s as much as I know about the type of system. I do have a 3 way motorised zonal valve. The pump is definitely running.
Click to expand...
What is confusing me is that then downstairs rads do warm up just never as hot as the up stairs ones and it’s a lottery as and when they heat up. As if this moment i have turned the heating off. Opened all rads to fully open. Then turned the heating on. Within minutes the upstair rads are proper hot. Nothing downstairs though
 
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SJB060685 said:
Could be the system needs balancing and would be my first approach.
Click to expand...
Ive tried that many times unless I’m doing it wrong. I’ve opened the shield valves half a turn on the upstairs rads. They get roasting. Just now I’m I’ve closed them all up stairs to see if this does anything. Also just tried bleeding the downstairs rads. A steady flow of clean water comes out
 
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I think you could be right. It’s a Grundfos 15-50. It’s been quite noisy for sometime. I just tried bleeding it by undoing the centre bleed screw and the pump stopped. As I tightened it up it was struggling to turn (the pump I mean)
Had to find a sweet spot where it doesn’t leak out of the bleed screw hole and the pump turns. That’s not right is it?
 
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SJB060685 said:
Could be a pump problem, the upstairs radiators heating up through gravity circulation.
Click to expand...
think you could be right. It’s a Grundfos 15-50. It’s been quite noisy for sometime. I just tried bleeding it by undoing the centre bleed screw and the pump stopped. As I tightened it up it was struggling to turn (the pump I mean)
Had to find a sweet spot where it doesn’t leak out of the bleed screw hole and the pump turns. That’s not right is it?
 
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If the pump is rotating sometimes then you MIGHT and im not saying do but might have a weak capacitor.
Probably best to replace the whole pump though to ensure future function.
I would change the pump valves at the same time.
 
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Frosty7 said:
Ok. Thanks everyone. Couple of final questions. Where is the best place to get a new Grundfos 15-50 pump? And I take it I will only need the pump. No need to replace the housing with the unions? Also how much? I see them ranging from £160 - £250
Click to expand...
Frosty7 said:
Ok. Thanks everyone. Couple of final questions. Where is the best place to get a new Grundfos 15-50 pump? And I take it I will only need the pump. No need to replace the housing with the unions? Also how much? I see them ranging from £160 - £250
Click to expand...
Frosty7 said:
Ok. Thanks everyone. Couple of final questions. Where is the best place to get a new Grundfos 15-50 pump? And I take it I will only need the pump. No need to replace the housing with the unions? Also how much? I see them ranging from £160 - £250
Click to expand...
SJB060685 said:
If the pump is rotating sometimes then you MIGHT and im not saying do but might have a weak capacitor.
Probably best to replace the whole pump though to ensure future function.
I would change the pump valves at the same time.
Click to expand...
Sorry but what it the capacitor?
And the valves your are talking about are they the ones directly above and below the pump?
 
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SJB060685 said:
A capacitor is a device that helps start and run the motor. Yes the valves above and below the pump are best changed as well, they're notorious for leaking if you touch them.
Click to expand...
I just want to update.
my heating is now working fine thanks to all who replied.
the problem was a few things.
1. the heating engineer closed the bypass valve completely as with a 3 way zonal valve there is no need for a bypass as the valve is never closed.
2. The return pipe is 28mm. He said the return is not required to be so big so he closed if the valve on the return a little therefore restricting the return a bit.
3. The pump. The pump was replaced.
I’m now getting roasting hot radiators all round the house and they get to heat well within half an hour.
Result
Cheers
 
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