Heat gun or blowtorch?

[OxfordJules]

I'm thinking about replacing a radiator or two. This will almost certainly require some soldering, although not much. As a bit of a novice, but not a complete and utter idiot, I was planning to use Yorkshire fittings (and not only because my wife is from Yorkshire, although that helps!) and a ... heat gun. e.g. an Erbauer EHG2000. Maximum temperature apparently 650C.

Would that do the job or do I really need to use a blowtorch?

Thanks for any advice.

 

[cjg]

use a blow torch you can buy one cheap if you like, most of us use rothy,

 

[Roy_66]

I'm a total amateur. I use a rothenberger torch (with smaller tip on for 26mm). Brilliant Torch, will work upside down etc. Watch all the safety videos.

Are your Yorkshire fittings lead solder? (Lead now banned for professionals and not allowed on drinking water pipes)

Whatever - get some scrap pipe and a bag of fittings and practice. On the bench first, then simulate the real location - on the floor? in a corner? Also please think about fire risk (whatever torch). Pressure test your training pieces. Also cut through afterwards with hacksaw to convince yourself they are good.

If you stick with Yorkshire's then dabbing the joint (other side of fitting from the torch) with a reel of solder (the same kind) will tell you when you get a melt.

I use LACO flux and Fry's Powerflow solder. I wouldn't use Yorkshire's unless I was in a difficult situation as the joints aren't as good (That said my house was built with them behind the walls and the ones I've seen don't look pretty)

All that will take some time so if you don't have that to spare then think about using a professional. My heating pipework is done by professionals.

Do you have any unusual fire risks?

Lastly you need a method to make sure no water in the pipes before attempting soldering. I used low pressure compressed air for that but it wasn't quick.

Cheers,

Roy

 

[SJB060685]

Melting point of lead free solder is around 220°c, which could be achieved by the unit you mention. Whether or not it would supply an even temperature around the fitting like a flame would I don’t know.

 

[steadyon]

The heat gun almost certainly won't enable you to solder properly because:
1. The heat pattern is wrong, and you won't be able to concentrate it near the fittings you want to solder. Most of the heat will go to waste.
2. You run the risk of burning / charring surrounding decorations.

 

[Limecc]

I hate Yorkshire fittings because when soldered they've a built-in void, and still need solder and flux anyway. Besides practical reasons, they are more expensive, look amateurish and are frankly crap.

Cleanliness is the key to good joints. You can still buy leaded solder and it works best but as mentioned you can't use it on drinking water. Fine for central heating and gas. Get a blowtorch, self igniting ones are not expensive. Extra heat's often needed to overcome water residues left in drained pipework.

 

[OxfordJules]

Thanks for your replies everybody. I was fully intending to get some pipe and fittings etc. and practice, practice, practice. But perhaps now with just normal couplers. And a blow torch.

Or just pay somebody else to do it all for me ...

 

[WC1]

I hate Yorkshire fittings because when soldered they've a built-in void, and still need solder and flux anyway. Besides practical reasons, they are more expensive, look amateurish and are frankly crap.

Cleanliness is the key to good joints. You can still buy leaded solder and it works best but as mentioned you can't use it on drinking water. Fine for central heating and gas. Get a blowtorch, self igniting ones are not expensive. Extra heat's often needed to overcome water residues left in drained pipework.

I always have a few yorkies in for working in a tight spot!

 

[Roy_66]

Thanks for your replies everybody. I was fully intending to get some pipe and fittings etc. and practice, practice, practice. But perhaps now with just normal couplers. And a blow torch.

Or just pay somebody else to do it all for me ...

Try some and see how you get on. On this job you can do it in lead, but if in future you want to do some water supply then you might want to learn lead free. Lead free has a smaller sweet spot in between getting a melt and overheating and burning the thing. Would recommend the heat it up gently method (and then learn to back off the torch once you get a melt), rather than the high power blast it method.

The thing that had me stumped when I changed to lead free was the solder (got crap grey joints) but fine when I switched to Fry's Powerflow.

Deffo get a torch with an igniter.

Cheers,

Roy