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D

Darren Thornton

Hi All,

I was wondering whether anyone could provide me with some support and guidance regarding a problem that I have with my heating system.

i recently moved into a new house which was in need of refurbishing from top to bottom!
It's a three bedroom semi detached and therefore I decided to start the renovations in the first floor rear bedroom. The room needed plastering so I turned off the rad valves and unscrewed the nuts from the rad tails and emptied the contents of the rad in a bucket.

I left the valves in place until it was time to change the radiator once the plaster had dried. Before installing the radiator, I moved on to stripping the front first floor bedroom and again took out the radiator. This room also needed plastering.

two weeks ago this room was plastered and I spent this week painting it. I went out today and bought a 500mm in height radiator by 1000mm in length radiator. As it was longer than the old radiator I had to move the pipes and installed two 15mm isolation valves underneath the floor boards before plumbing in the 15mm pipe work.

After tightening up all the joints on the rad and the isolation valves, I turned the water back on to fill the system back up.

Thankfullu there was no leaks.....so far! But the water will now not heat via the combi boiler system. A red light is flashing constantly. I've switched it off at the mains and turned it back on again but still no joy!

i am wondering whether it's to do with the fact that I still haven't installed a radiator in the other bedroom upstairs. Will this cause problems because the water won't circulate around the full system,

could it be that I've not put the isolation valves on the right way and side of the rads. I was unsure what side the flow and return pipes were so I put the flow on the left hand side and then return coming out of the the thermostat

Or could it be an airlock, the system has been bled bar the back bedoom where there's no rad and just closed valves. Sorry to ask ask do many questions, regards Daz
 
Iso. valves should be full flow, and beware of turning rad tails off on TRV with rad removed, as freezing temps can cause TRV to open.
 
Welcome to the forum daz. What boiler do you have there?

It's a Worcester junior i24 I think. I've filled the pressure up
To 1.5 bar. The isolation valves I just cut into the pipes underneath the floorboards should I incur a leak as per the norm with my inning skills!!!
 
Welcome to the forum daz. What boiler do you have there?


Quote Originally Posted by APPlumbing View Post
Welcome to the forum daz. What boiler do you have there?
It's a Worcester junior i24 I think. I've filled the pressure up
To 1.5 bar. The isolation valves I just cut into the pipes underneath the floorboards should I incur a leak as per the norm with my inning skills!!!
 
You shouldn't have put any isolating valves on. No reason for them and most valves are likely to leak. The cheap standard isolating valves with slotted screw cannot take any heat at them, will leak and are restrictive to flow.
 
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Most ISO valves are not rated for heating systems.

If you have reset the boiler as per the manufacturers instructions then you will need to call an engineer out.

Did you refill with corrosion inhibitor?
 
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No need to use the iso valve. Fully not recommend . Let the system work without using these ISO. , this reduces regulated circulation ( I not full bore ISO used) and puts more pressure on the pump. Make sure bleeding all the radiators top and Work down.
 
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As you say you have a "Worcester junior i24" can you tell us if there is a symbol next to the flashing light or better still post a picture.

Have you reset the boiler (I don't mean turning the power off and on as this will not work)?

As everyone else has said, get rid of the iso valves, if you have to use them then only use full bore and only on the tails to the radiator and not on the main flow and return pipes?
 

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