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Do you know that's just what all those people on the north coast of America are saying right know.
Weather and climate are two completely different things. Weather occurs day by day. Climate is something that can only be understood century by century.
 
Weather and climate are two completely different things. Weather occurs day by day. Climate is something that can only be understood century by century.
So you would not make any connection between the ferocity or the extremes of the "Weather" & the changes in the "Climate" i.e. the warming / temperature rise ?? or would you like a lot of the rest of the world prefer to wait 100 years & then say one way or the other.
 
So you would not make any connection between the ferocity or the extremes of the "Weather" & the changes in the "Climate" i.e. the warming / temperature rise ?? or would you like a lot of the rest of the world prefer to wait 100 years & then say one way or the other.
Climate is measured over decades, weather is a a day by day measurement ie cold today, warm yesterday,wet the day before. Climate= Ice age,mini ice age.
 
I would love to debate weather with you mr watkins move it to the arms on another thread thanks
 
£52 a year.

See, if your old pump stopped working the renewal with an A pump will have played in the uprise in far less than a year. This is why I fit since years literally exclusively Alphas and Magnas. (Except in boilers with build in pumps)

Already in year one it starts paying for itself. Now there are customers that pay a lot more for electricity or have multiple pumps. The saving depends on so many factors. But none of my customers has not felt a noticable saving on his electricity bill.

Of course I do not go round and change working pumps. But where ever it needs replacement I feel the need to provide my customers with the cheaper option and that is an A pump.

Someone mentioned the energy saving bulbs not doing their job. Again there are a lot more different technologies and choosing the wrong one will provide you with the wrong result.
One prime example is a customer which had in the U/S room fitted 22 downlights with 50W and a beam angle of 25-35 degree. Room is not even 7' high. Roasting hot in summer, pretty dull at all times despite more than 1000W light fittings. These now got replaced with 1.5W warm white LED fittings with 120 degree beam angle and the room is so bright now. No thrown fuses anymore when a light fitting blows. The energy cost for using this room are now reasonable and in summer you be in it without a bucket beneath you for catching your sweat.
Before it was just putting another bulb in, now you have to consider light colour, beam angle, wattage, technology (LED,CFL,etc.). And to put cream on it the quality of those can differ so much (on different manufacturers) despite being nominal the same fitting.
 
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No problem.

However this is assuming that it really can save 40%. If it really is that efficient, then they do sound good!
In adaptive mode or in proportional pressure I find savings being even above that in specific if the old pump was still a 100W model and not a new 50W.
In constant pressure it will most likely be below that but usually it gets used on systems that tend to run for much longer times so the absolute saving is still high.
And even if you pick one a constant speed it will still save you even agains a 50W model.
(Read that for the 15/60, for 15/50 you can scale it down)

But in conjunction with a downsized pump and a control that allows the system to run for suitable times (Programmable Room Stat etc.) you can mostly present significant savings on both fuels.
 
No thrown fuses anymore when a light fitting blows.
So I am not alone! The kitchen has six GU10 50W halogen lamps and every time one gives up it knocks out the whole downstairs lighting - I know which switch to reset as I've had plenty of practice.

Why does this happen (tripping the fuse-switch) and are there alternatives to the GU10 which won't do this?
 
You can get led replacements. have a look at these.

[DLMURL="http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/60ledgu10w/lamp-gu10-60-led-white/dp/LP04615"]60LEDGU10W - PRO ELEC - LAMP GU10 60 LED WHITE | CPC[/DLMURL]
 
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I knocked through our kitchen and living room...and fitted 30 spot lights. All with 50W lamps! All been good until one blew the other week, knocked the fuse out and killed the dimmer. (Its not a standard dimmer - but more expensive one designed to deal with the bigger load).

I would change em all the LED - but the dimmable ones are a FORTUNE!!
 
I knocked through our kitchen and living room...and fitted 30 spot lights. All with 50W lamps! All been good until one blew the other week, knocked the fuse out and killed the dimmer. (Its not a standard dimmer - but more expensive one designed to deal with the bigger load).

I would change em all the LED - but the dimmable ones are a FORTUNE!!
Do you actually use the dimmer though Danny or do you find like me that it just gets left on the same setting all the time ??
 
So I am not alone! The kitchen has six GU10 50W halogen lamps and every time one gives up it knocks out the whole downstairs lighting - I know which switch to reset as I've had plenty of practice.

Why does this happen (tripping the fuse-switch) and are there alternatives to the GU10 which won't do this?

GU10 is perfect as you will not have transformers. Is it high ceilings? Are the lights used as general lighting or as spots? Is the kitchen a totally separated room that does not get used for living? Is there other lights in the kitchen?
What size of floor area are we talking about?
 
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